Hasbro Force action/Corbin's Board

[Dark Navel]

O.K. I know there are tons of forums out there on how to connect Corbin’s board to a Hasbro soundboard but I wanted to start a new one since the forums that I have seen don't include pics of the new force action board. (this one came from a Vader)

Of course I wanted to bounce some questions off the pros how to do this since I am a bit technical but not as many others are.

Here's what I want to do...Connect the Hasbro force action board to Corbin's board but also have the ability to have the blade lock-up effect. I think I have use two different switches of two different types but there are so many out there I'm confusing myself what to use.

By the way, this is going into my own Dooku lightsaber that I am totally scratch building. I have all of the parts and it is going to be almost an exact replica of the movie version (Well as close as I can get it) I have sunk well over $120.00 into it and I just started building it.

I am going to de-solder the impact sensor and relocate it inside the hilt since it is very hard to activate it when it's soldered to the board as it is now. I have the time to do the hilt since I threw my back out and I am out of work.


I know the Hasbro board isn't the best deal out there for a soundcard but it's better than nothing and all I can afford.

If someone would like to donate a "real" soundcard I would be more than happy to put it in the hilt and show it off to the community, youtube etc...

Anyway here's the card and what I have so far for connections..PLEASE feel free to modify as I am looking for your feedback.

Dark Navel

[Darth_DevilGuy]

I'm looking into using that same board in my MHS custom, I think with a momentary switch you can pull it off with only one, though I could be wrong.

[Dark Navel]

Yeah,

Not really sure either...I could have sworn I read about a DPDT dwitch for the power and the an momentary for the blade lock-up...

New board too so I'm not sure if anyone else has done it.

My advice it to desolder the clash sensor and locate near the base of the blade because it won't sense clashes very well based on it's location now.

Small sensor on a rigid board tucked in the middle of the hilt: effects will be negligible.

[Dark Navel]

I was also told from a reputible scource that it can be done with a DPDT switch. These swiches are usually a toggle switch, rocker switch etc. so I don't know how a blabe lock-up effect would work with one switch like this.

[Darth_DevilGuy]

you may need a second switch for the lockup yeah, I'm just driving mine with paired 700ma Buck Pucks.

[Lord Maul]

That diagram looks sound to me.

You do need a DPDT switch. Make sure that you buy the MOMENTARY version of Corbin's driver. If you buy the latching driver, you'll be out 40 bucks.

[Hasid Lafre]

If my computer worked I could get the diagram to use a momentary corbin board in latching form. but you have to have another switch to press to turn it off or something like that.

[Lord Maul]

Hasid, Hasbro boards are all momentary. You want a momentary Corbin driver.

[Dark Navel]

Lord M,

So I need 2 switches..OK. I need a DPDT switch for the power and a SPST for the Blade lock-up. Is that correct?

I guess I could use a sliding switch for the on/off, I can hide it under the red activation switch for Dooku's hilt. I will have to bury the SPST for the blade lock-up.

Any way someone can finish the diagram to show mw how to wire this puppy? I am also using a 3W red LED.

[Lord Maul]

Yes, you'll need two switches. Both need to be momentary.

The wiring diagram you posted is fine. You'll just need to wire in the C&L button. It attaches to the Corbin board.