Pre-LED Hasbro Board Wiring

[Zero Unit]

Since I am still a bit lost on how exactly to do this, and I don't want to fry the K2 green I just ordered, I will humbly ask here.

The pre-LED era (1995) Hasbro sound board has an integrated switch pad that I don't think I'll be able to circumvent, but the biggest issue is getting the correct number of volts/amps from the battery to the LED through this board (and speaker and old fashioned spring clash sensor), which was not built with LEDs in mind.

A diagram would be welcome. I've looked at the other Hasbro board thread, but the lack of a motion sensor and the integrated switch pad in this model complicates things for my relatively uneducated-in-electronics mind.

Thank you in advance,
Zero.

[Kasri Deodene]

I believe i know the way around the mounted switch. The rubber switch pops off leaving 2 holes and the circuit lines beneath. A bit of carefull soldering should be able to get things done.

Does say on the packaging that it takes 2 C size batteries. The original bulb is at 2.5V, so how far you can push the actual board without the bulb being the limiting factor i don't know. I am interested to find out though as i have one that i picked up cheap.

Pics attached of the board from both sides and where i believe you can put your own switch in to replace the on board one.

The light makes its battery positive connection straight from the battery itself.




Hope i've got it right, i am still a noob at this

[Chowser]

Can you just run the LED off a resistor and just send power to the board for sound?

I'm building an MHS for a coworker's kid's 3rd birthday and right now, it's a K2 green, no sound, I do have an old Hasbro Obi-Wan AOTC that I can gut for a soundboard. After I get back from vaca, I'll gut it and see if it works.

i'm going to start here though:

http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com...read.php?t=372

[xl97]

yes.. you can definately just use a Hasbro for sound..and NOT to DRIVE the LED..

many prefer this option as that get the flicker on/off of the LED when you clash (Flash on Clash)

you can resistor or use a buckpuck I believe.. (to keep a constant volt to it)

[Zero Unit]

Wow, I forgot about this thread completely until I picked up my gutted Hasbro hilt today to see how shallow I could insert the blade and still have it remain solid...

Thank you very much guys, I now know what to do with it. I was about to just direct-drive without the sound at all.

Cheers,
Zero.

[bigbret50]

yes.. you can definately just use a Hasbro for sound..and NOT to DRIVE the LED..

many prefer this option as that get the flicker on/off of the LED when you clash (Flash on Clash)

you can resistor or use a buckpuck I believe.. (to keep a constant volt to it)

Stupid newbie question but how? Is there a diagram out there? I have looked for about an hour and can't find anything.

Thanks,