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Thread: Hasbro sound module schematics and discussions

  1. #41

    Join Date
    Feb 2008
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    British Columbia ,Canada
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    461

    Default

    question: is the clash version the newest version?

  2. #42

    Default

    yes this thing does have movement sensor, it is the newest. bought at walmart yesterday. the clash IMHO is a bad thing. this thing is WAY to sensitive and extremely repetitive

    not too shure about the clash verson. it has 2 clash sounds tho. 1 for a smaller hit which is short and a longer for a harder hit
    ---------------------------------------------------
    best blaster refracting emitter... 450 Imperial Credits
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  3. #43

    Default

    For a Hasbro it's actually pretty good.
    I'm using the force action Obi in my saber until I get my Ultrasound and atm I'm happy with it.
    Momma in law: If this printer keeps printing the same thing I'm going to spit nickles!

    Me: if you start spitting nickles I'm coming over with a bucket!

  4. #44

    Default hasbro saber

    I've been reading through and I guess bottom line is there's no way to use a hasbro board, with a Luxeon III LED, using a 9V power source? That's the setup I was hoping to try but based on what I've read it's not possible without burning out your board. That or change the battery type is the only other option right?

  5. #45

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    Quote Originally Posted by Darth Chuck View Post
    I've been reading through and I guess bottom line is there's no way to use a hasbro board, with a Luxeon III LED, using a 9V power source? That's the setup I was hoping to try but based on what I've read it's not possible without burning out your board. That or change the battery type is the only other option right?
    nah this can be done. but there will be a downside

    youll have 2 completely different circuits powered off one source and toggled on and off by one switch having the LED stand alone and if you want get a driver for the LED and have the Hasbro board on another circuit with the proper resisters to change the voltage to each circuits voltage requirements. i plan to do this myself. the swich is going to be tricky tho. even tho its a memory switch for the Hasbro board im using a post switch the kind you slide and it keeps the connection. i tested with my Hasbro board and it works, to turn off tho you would have to flip off and on and off agan to turn the sound off, the blade will be on or off, depending on switch position



    this has not been tested yet, so try at own risk, i cannot be held responsible for anything that happens.. this includes the generating of black holes or rip in space /time contenueum
    ---------------------------------------------------
    best blaster refracting emitter... 450 Imperial Credits
    custom quadrinineum crystal... 1020 Imperial Credits
    droxsus catheum power cell... 400 Imperial Credits

    knowing you just built the most awesome saber... priceless. there are some things money can't buy for everything else. there's the Master Imperial Credit card.


  6. #46

    Default





    What is the blade activated switch? Can it be bypassed or not used at all?

  7. #47

    Default

    Please try and read the posts before asking.

    If you look on the board itself, it's a deactivation switch when the blade retracts on the toy.

  8. #48

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    Quote Originally Posted by swear000 View Post




    What is the blade activated switch? Can it be bypassed or not used at all?
    its the swich that is activated when the blade is closed on the hasbro toys. usalyh not used at all when the board is used for home made ones
    ---------------------------------------------------
    best blaster refracting emitter... 450 Imperial Credits
    custom quadrinineum crystal... 1020 Imperial Credits
    droxsus catheum power cell... 400 Imperial Credits

    knowing you just built the most awesome saber... priceless. there are some things money can't buy for everything else. there's the Master Imperial Credit card.


  9. #49

    Default board

    Ok I pulled out the brown and the blue wires and am using the outermost VCC red as the power from the battery. The two yellow switch wires were replaced with a red and black going to the switch. I want to hook the board up but am concerned about frying another board. So, is there anyway to safely test the setup. Also, is there any case where the power would go to the switch instead of the board?

    ***edit***
    I actually had this setup working until the metal ring from the speaker hit the metal pipe. Then...dead....
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by swear000; 10-25-2008 at 05:31 PM. Reason: edit

  10. #50

    Default

    the diagram i have isn't a layout i made. it is the original for the toy saber. i plan to do some modifications to it. i plan to bypass the LED from the board all together to give a fade on and dim out effect when turned on and off and to remove the flash-clash effect
    ---------------------------------------------------
    best blaster refracting emitter... 450 Imperial Credits
    custom quadrinineum crystal... 1020 Imperial Credits
    droxsus catheum power cell... 400 Imperial Credits

    knowing you just built the most awesome saber... priceless. there are some things money can't buy for everything else. there's the Master Imperial Credit card.


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