Hasbro sound module schematics and discussions

**Mewgen** · 10-11-2008, 02:26 PM

"Do or do not, there is no try..."

You should be just fine

**PsH A Dead Guy** · 10-15-2008, 01:34 PM

Okay, I read through most of the posts, and I'm doing all of my own wiring for the first time. I hope this isn't too noobish of me, as I do try to do as much reading as possible before asking any questions.

I have a Force Action Obi Wan Hasbro board, one of the newest ones. I'm waiting on my LED to arrive, but I'm curious. I'm running 4 AAA's to the board, so that should be 6 volts, but someone mentioned that if I run the LED straight off the Hasbro board, that I won't need a resistor? Is that so? Or would I be better off just wiring the LED seperately? As in, off the same battery pack, but just not connecting it to the board and using a resistor?

I don't mind losing the clash flash on the LED so much, but if its possible it would be nice to have. I do have both an LED and the proper resistor on order, its a LUX III Amber and a 2.2 Ohm 5 Watt resistor according to the chart.

So, I'm guessing there are 3 possible setups, depending on what works...

Hasbro Board straight to LED, Hasbro Board to resistor to LED, or lastly, skipping the Hasbro board and using a seperate connection from the battery pack to run the LED on the resistor...

**Mewgen** · 10-16-2008, 10:29 AM

If you run the LED straight off the battery, you WILL need a resisitor. If you run the Lux off the board, it will be resisted already, and you will NOT need a resisitor.

I just bought the Hasbro Vader today, same as Obi, and I just ran the 4AAA with Lux hooked up to the board. Works great here.

**PsH A Dead Guy** · 10-16-2008, 09:47 PM

Okay cool, so the board is like a built in resistor? Awesome. That means I can keep the clash flash yay! lol

**sithlordfaust** · 10-18-2008, 03:05 AM

what do you do with all the extrapower cuttoff wires on the force actioin hasbro board?

**Mewgen** · 10-20-2008, 08:50 PM

Get rid of them. They're only used when the toy blade is retracted to turn-off the saber.

**sithlordfaust** · 10-21-2008, 10:43 PM

Originally Posted by Strydur

Postitive input = Hook directly to positive on battery pack
Negative input = Hook directly to negative on battery pack
Negative output = Switched output to LED or could be used to trigger a relay in a EL setup

The positive for the LED/EL setup would come straight from the battery

Using the negative output on the sound module like this will have a flash on startup/shutdown and a flash on clash. What I mean by this is the LED will blink on and off fast for a few seconds during these times.

Tim
The Custom Saber Shop

the highlighted red -- meaning i nee a second switch? notunderstanding...if anyone has the schematic that went here i would love it...im running a seoul p4 and its nowhere near as bright as my 616. im trying to brighten the blade till i can get a 1000ma puck without drilling another hole for a latchin switch. fender told me the hasbro board im running only puts out 500ma. ive got a resister to put in place...help...please

ive got a red lux III but im undrstanding it needs 1400ma