Hasbro sound module schematics and discussions

[Matt Thorn]

i would go with a 5mm accent led if i were you instead of the hasbro, it will just plain look better.

Actually, I used the original ring of 3 LEDs from an economy Hasbro to light a vented pommel, and it works great.

[Shadar Al'Niende]

With what power setup?

[KuroChou]

I'm not even going to ask forgiveness for my n00bness on this one, because I searched, but obviously didn't read EVERY post, thus, if you must flame, flame my impatience.

Is there any particular reason we're preferring using a bulky relay in place of a transistor switch?

I've seen the recommended relays in person, and granted they ARE small, they're a whole lot bigger than two pennies stacked together (for a relatively large transistor).

[vargose]

Is there any particular reason we're preferring using a bulky relay in place of a transistor switch?

Enlighten us. If there is a better way I am sure there are people here, who would love to try it.

[Darthcestus]

alright, well i've gone from post 1 all the way to 224. and though the info i have read helps. i still need help.

so here is my problem:
i have:
lux 3 red(1400ma)
latching switch
a led driver3w v2 (1000ma)
6v battery pack

i want:
hasbro sound card and speaker

can someone help me, with the use of a schematic, to get the best bang for my buck, please

[Matt Thorn]

Is there any particular reason we're preferring using a bulky relay in place of a transistor switch?

I've seen the recommended relays in person, and granted they ARE small, they're a whole lot bigger than two pennies stacked together (for a relatively large transistor).

I think the reason is probably that using a transistor requires a lot more calculation, particularly since you need to pump 1000 - 1500 mA through it. If you don't mind doing the calculations and tracking down a resistor that will put out that much current, and you're really short on interior space, a transistor might serve you fine, but if you can fit a reed relay into your hilt, it's just a lot easier, IMHO. The Tyco JWS-117-1 I use is no bigger than a high capacity transistor.

[vargose]

lux 3 red(1400ma)
latching switch
a led driver3w v2 (1000ma)
6v battery pack

hasbro sound card and speaker

can someone help me, with the use of a schematic, to get the best bang for my buck, please

Your lux 3 red will be underpowered by the driver. A Seoul P4 (800ma) red would have been a better choice for the led driver, but you will be fine.

Well you've got one big problem. It sounds like you have a latching led driver. If you had a Momentary led driver you could have used an SPDT momentary switch for both the driver and the sound card, as it stands you are probably going to have to use two seperate switches. A latching switch for your driver and a momentary switch for your toy hasbro sound card. You might be able to use a relay to replace the latching switch, but the flash on clash, startup, and shutdown will make the driver behave funny. Essentially the relay would act like the switch for the driver board. It would be similar to this diagram

My advice would be to buy an FX lightsaber and gut it for the sound board. The FX sound boards use latching switches and you could use one DPDT latching switch for both the driver and sound board. You could then sell the FX hilt to get back some of the extra cost.

I have some concerns with this schematic:

1. First is the relay. I'm considering

I suppose that as the batteries run down the relay will cut out and the LED will turn off while the sound is still on. Since there are no followups on that thread, I guess there's been no luck in finding the right relay.

This radio shack relay would be a better choice, if you are going to use radio shack. Its true that when the batteries run down its harder for them to trip the relay, but honestly it takes a while before that happens, and since you have a recharge port it won't be that big a deal. If you use 5 rechargebles for 6 volts that would happen less, but thats up to you.

[jcook1023]

hey guys, i'm a bit confused and even after reading through the MR/Hasbro FX Wiring Diagram thread, i'm not 100% positive i understand fully... im building a saber using the seoul p4 wiring kit with the premium speaker and a mace windu card...would you be able to confirm my thoughts on this wiring and let me know if i need to think differently? it seems as though i have the gray wire going to my clash sensor with a short blue wire coming off - this gets tied into the LED (+) wire, while the bundle of multicolors (7 wires) runs to LED (-)? Do I just solder all 7 of these wires together with the (-) lead coming off the LED? Also, from the battery pack - red goes to battery/speaker (+), while black goes to battery (-), and brown goes to speaker (-)... i have two blue wires coming to the old switch - those go to the leads coming off the push on/off switch that came with the kit, yeah? now, my kit came with a resistor - i splice that into the LED (-) or battery (-)? it appears as though the MHS LED kit (resistor tutorial) thread shows the resistor going to battery (-)/LED (-), but with the soundcard in there, that throws me for a loop... i'm not doing any wiring yet - saving that for next weekend with my brother in law who does electronics wiring for a living, but i just want to make sure i've got the right idea coming into things...

[Darksun75]

Hello,
Another lightsaber noob.
I am using the guts of an Ultimate FX Qui Gon Jinn lightsaber to build my first PVC custom. I have studied various wiring diagrams but haven't seen one for this board. I will be adding a Momentary LED switch, and a kill Switch and possibly another accent LED. I would like to know if my wiring diagram looks right or if I am completely confussed.

Thanks

Help me Qui Gon Jinn your my only hope.jpg

[jamdar69]

I'm having an issue with the sound not working. Any suggestions?