Hasbro sound module schematics and discussions

[Nineteen]

So if I give the board the 5 volts, what will the output be?

[Matt Thorn]

So if I give the board the 5 volts, what will the output be?

With the economy Hasbro boards, the difference between input and output is almost negligible.
Still, if you plan to do much saber-making (or working with any kind of electronics), you should get yourself a multimeter so that you can make the measurements yourself and know exactly what your set-up is doing.

[cordaroyfog]

What do you guys think of this, I found the pic online. Says made for CREE but would it work for a luxeon or ledengin?

[Matt Thorn]

What do you guys think of this, I found the pic online. Says made for CREE but would it work for a luxeon or ledengin?

Both the Luxeon and Ledengin come with that "star" PCB. Alone, it does not suffice as a heatsink for a high-power (3-Watt +) LED. All of Tim's LED holders come with proper heatsinks.

[cordaroyfog]

my mistake, you mean they all need Luxeon star heatsink from the store in addition to what they come with?

[Kal El Rah]

YES. you must heatsink all the stars to keep the led alive and not overheat.

[Matt Thorn]

my mistake, you mean they all need Luxeon star heatsink from the store in addition to what they come with?

If you use any of the blade holders or conversion kits TCSS, it will come with the necessary heatsink, which will either be copper or aluminum. In most, you use nylon screws (included) to fix the LED star PCB to the heatsink.

[vargose]

A general warning about the hasbro boards. The connections on the board are very weak. I used hot glue to secure the wires on the board.

[noslenpar]

This is my first post on the forums (go easy on me, pls). I'm getting ready to build my first saber, and have been reading the forums for a couple of weeks to learn as much as possible before I get started. So I want to thank everyone who shares what they know on this forum. It's been, and continues to be a great help.
I'm using the sound board from a Hasbro Obi-Wan Force Action Saber that I got at Target for $15. I saw Lord Maul posted a sticky summary of this thread, but it's closed and I wanted to run this schematic by everyone. I just hope people are still looking at this thread.
Before I start my build I want to do more reading and get some soldering practice. In the meantime I'm working on getting my electronics worked out on paper.
Based on schematics by Cardcollector, Matt Thorn and others, I've come up with this for my saber:


I have some concerns with this schematic:

1. First is the relay. I'm considering this relay from Radio Shack, since I live near a Radio Shack, OR this one from Mouser.
In a thread about relays and the hasbro board, Cardcollector wrote:
"So, an ideal relay would be this. (for use in our hasbro boards)
-Switching current: .35A or less.
-Carry Current: 1A or more
-Operating voltage: 6 volts or less.
- must be SPST or SPDT
I have looked around and haven't found any... yet"

I suppose that as the batteries run down the relay will cut out and the LED will turn off while the sound is still on. Since there are no followups on that thread, I guess there's been no luck in finding the right relay.

2. Second is using the hasbro LED's for the crystal chamber may drain my batteries too fast. Maybe I'll replace the hasbro triple LED with a single LED.

After drawing these schematics I'm thinking that I may use a White P4 instead of a Lux III. The P4 will be brighter.

Any comments, suggestions, corrections, etc. are greatly appreciated.

[Shadar Al'Niende]

i would go with a 5mm accent led if i were you instead of the hasbro, it will just plain look better. As for your wiring, (please someone more experienced with electronics diagrams, chime in here) i think it looks ok. I have heard that you have to be careful with the RS relays.