Hasbro sound module schematics and discussions

[mihunai]

my most current attempt at a wiring schematic with a '95 Vader and a latching Corbin.
will have a 5V regulator on there
it is mainly based on the Habro relay setup posted earlier
but would this turn the Corbin on nomatter what the Hasbro does?


BTW, how likely is the '95 Hasbro to fry at 5V?

mTm

[Hasid Lafre]

Ive been told that that wont work.

[Jedi-Loreen]

For one thing, it looks like you have 2 power inputs going to Corbin driver.

I'm not sure why you're using a relay there. Is that supposed to be turning the Corbin driver on and off?

There are more problems than just this, but I'll let someone who's more familiar with using these boards than I am tell you what and why.

[eastern57]

Mihunai, yes the corbin board will operate separately. There's no switch going to the corbin board, so if you leave it in the "on" position, your kill key will turn the blade LED on/off, but your switch will only turn the sound on/off. Know what I mean?

What do you want it to do? Do you want them to run at the same time with one switch? If so, this will not work.

Edit: don't know what you're doing with the relay there. Corbins can take a lot more than 5v and hasbros have shown to work fine at 6v.

[mihunai]

Mihunai, yes the corbin board will operate separately. There's no switch going to the corbin board, so if you leave it in the "on" position, your kill key will turn the blade LED on/off, but your switch will only turn the sound on/off. Know what I mean?

What do you want it to do? Do you want them to run at the same time with one switch? If so, this will not work.

Edit: don't know what you're doing with the relay there. Corbins can take a lot more than 5v and hasbros have shown to work fine at 6v.

i think '95 hasbros would porbably blow up at twice the normal voltage...
new plan. wiring in series.
ill try to figure out a wiring scheme with both boards wired in series, with the corbin switch soldered shut, so allways closed, and some voltageregulators/resistors to get 3V to the Hasbro, and the rest to the corbin. maybe going for a 9V battery...

mTm

[sfer1]

This is the one I used
http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...ductId=2062478



As far as type. Whichever type closes while current is applied to it, and opens when not.

One is the postive for the board. The negative output from the board goes through the relay and back out through the positve to the battery. This is controls the relay. When current is applied the relay closes and the LED turns on.

The other is the positive for the LED. The relay is acting as a switch on the positive line for the LED.

Here is the diagram again. It works great. Does anyone see a problem with it though?

The black wire connected to the relay is the LED - from the board, right?

And the LED + is left unused, correct?

[mihunai]

Hasbro + latching Corbin + Rechargeport/killswitch wiring scheme (minus quick-connects)


mTm

[vargose]

The black wire connected to the relay is the LED - from the board, right?

And the LED + is left unused, correct?

Yes that wire is normally the negative for the light bulb. My particular board is an older hasbro, so it didn't have a LED +. It connected back to the postive on the battery. If your board has a LED + you should use it instead of wiring back to the battery.

[sfer1]

Yes that wire is normally the negative for the light bulb. My particular board is an older hasbro, so it didn't have a LED +. It connected back to the postive on the battery. If your board has a LED + you should use it instead of wiring back to the battery.

Thanks!

My board has a LED +. Which one of these two would be correct (A or B)?

Edit: Neither one was correct I removed the pics to avoid any confusions.

[vargose]

Thanks!
My board has a LED +. Which one of these two would be correct (A or B)?

Well A is closer. You've got to make sure to hook up the relay correctly. Do you understand how they work? As current flows through the relay, in this case from LED - to LED +, it acts as a switch for the positive line between the battery and the buck puck.