Hasbro sound module schematics and discussions

**Roshen** · 04-13-2009, 09:00 AM

Does anyone have any experiance with a Mace Windu Force Action hasbro sound board? It looks similar to the Obi-Wan but the wires are different colors, well some of them are. Here a pic of the board, sorry its blurry. I took the photo with my camera phone. I unforunatly cant make heads or tails of some of the print on the board.

**Rhyen Skytracker** · 04-13-2009, 10:13 AM

Is there anyway you can edit the picture to label the wires with what the board says they are or just type the wire color and what the board says they are? It will make it alot easier for us to help you that way. I have wired a couple, but it has been a while.

**Roshen** · 04-13-2009, 10:32 AM

I sure can, i'll post it asap

DONE!

**Matt Thorn** · 04-13-2009, 03:00 PM

Originally Posted by Roshen

I sure can, i'll post it asap

DONE!

It's basically the same as this, but the wire colors are different and the placement of the wires is just a bit different:

VCC1 is the positive lead from the battery pack
VSS is the negative lead to the battery back
VCC is the positive lead to the LED
LAMP is the negative lead from the LED
ON/OFF and GND are the leads for the switch
SPK and SPK- are the leads for the speaker
SWING- and SWING+ are the leads for the clash sensor
OFF and OFF- are not used

**Roshen** · 04-13-2009, 06:53 PM

Thank you so much!

**Roshen** · 04-16-2009, 11:40 AM

It totally worked! Thank you very much. But I dont know if its as bright. I'm using 4 AA batteries and a 1000ma puck. Any thoughts

**vargose** · 04-16-2009, 11:51 AM

Originally Posted by Roshen

It totally worked! Thank you very much. But I dont know if its as bright. I'm using 4 AA batteries and a 1000ma puck. Any thoughts

Originally Posted by vargose

I created a wiring diagram for those who only want a single switch but want full power to their LED. The porblem is the cheap toy hasbro boards don't put out enough current for most LEDs. If you want the 1000ma or even 1400ma it takes to run most LEDs you need a separate circuit with a separate switch. I used a relay for the second switch which is powered by the board. See attached diagram. Be careful to check how much voltage your hasbro board will take. Some are ok with 6v, but some people use 5v regulators to be safe.

Attachment 1304

How did you wire up the buck puck? Did you use a relay like above?
If you are running it straight off the board your buck puck is not getting enough power.

**mihunai** · 04-16-2009, 01:14 PM

i just thought of something, the Latching corbin board activates when the switch connects the contacts right? if you where to solder those together, aka allways leave it on, could you just use the light output of the soundboard to activate it/turn on its powersupply, or would this cause an initial burst that will blow it up?

and BTW, could someone take a look at this to see if it should work?
clicky

mTm

**Storm Sunfire** · 04-18-2009, 04:36 AM

Hi all, this is my first post ever. I have been messing around with some MHS and sinktube combinations and after a year I still am without a decent soundcard. I went and bought a Darth Dookie lightsaber so that I can have sound. Here's the catch; How do I wire a hasbro board if I have 4AA's in a pack, a recharge port, a crystal chamber (just an LED I and colimitter from my son's busted Ultrasabers blade with an acrylic crystal mounted just above), an accent LED, an "IQ" switch, and a red Luxeon III LED?

Thanks for the help,
Storm