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Thread: Hasbro sound module schematics and discussions

  1. #1
    Owner of the Custom Saber shop Strydur's Avatar
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    Default Hasbro sound module schematics and discussions



    Let me start off by saying that this design is not approved by Corbin yet. I modified his drawing to show how to hook up his driver (the 3w driver I sell) and the hasbro sound modules I sell with only 1 momentary switch. I have tested this and it seems to work great but try it at your own risk. One nice side effect that I liked is that if you tap the switch very fast you can get just corbins driver to turn on for those times you dont want sound. Of course you need to tap it again without triggering the sound to set it back to normal. Only takes a minute to master but can be confusing. If you dont want the clash effect (which only seems to work some of the time) just dont hook up the 2 pink wires. I have only tested this with up to 6v and do not know if higher voltages will work.


    Tim
    The Custom Saber Shop

  2. #2
    Owner of the Custom Saber shop Strydur's Avatar
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    Postitive input = Hook directly to positive on battery pack
    Negative input = Hook directly to negative on battery pack
    Negative output = Switched output to LED or could be used to trigger a relay in a EL setup

    The positive for the LED/EL setup would come straight from the battery

    Using the negative output on the sound module like this will have a flash on startup/shutdown and a flash on clash. What I mean by this is the LED will blink on and off fast for a few seconds during these times.

    Tim
    The Custom Saber Shop

  3. #3
    Owner of the Custom Saber shop Strydur's Avatar
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    Here is a 2 switch setup thanks to Cain.

    Tim
    The Custom Saber Shop

  4. #4
    Owner of the Custom Saber shop Strydur's Avatar
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    This one was provided by GrimaOllak

    Tim
    The Custom Saber Shop

  5. #5

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    This is a schematic of a basic Hasbro board from a 1995 Darth Vader:


    I added wires for the switch and also a seperate lead for the positive to the led:


    The finished board, ready for use:


    This would be best used with a Micropuck driver wired to the led leads, using a Lux I. These boards come from Hasbro sabers using 2 "C" batteries, and will run on 2 "AA" batteries.

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  6. #6

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    Here's a Hasbro Obi-Wan Force Action saber for you. This model has the added bonus of a tiny clash sensor built right into the board. (How convenient and space-saving!)



    It'll take 6V without blowing up, and at that input, outputs about 5.5V to the LED leads, so make sure you put a resistor on there if you're running it straight off the board (that is, with clashflash).

  7. #7

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    I know this has probably been asked millions of times, just couldna't pinpoint it. How does a momentary switch operate? A latching switch is like a toggle switch (push on, push off) correct? So what does momentary do?
    Alderaan shot first.

  8. #8

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    Quote Originally Posted by Phiily Manyaan View Post
    I know this has probably been asked millions of times, just couldna't pinpoint it. How does a momentary switch operate? A latching switch is like a toggle switch (push on, push off) correct? So what does momentary do?
    A momentary is only on when you push it, and hold it...in the case of the hasbro boards, they are looking for a momentary, or temporary contact from the switch to tell the board to turn on. Another push or tap on the switch tells the board to turn off.

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  9. #9

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    So it still works as a toggle? If I wired a hasbro board into my saber and used only a momentary I'd have to hold the switch to keep the sound and light? That would get old quick. If I ran a two switch setup, would I still have to hold the momentary? Sorry for the noobness...
    Alderaan shot first.

  10. #10
    Council Member Novastar's Avatar
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    It depends on how the board was designed. Like Jay-Gonn said, in the case of the Hasbro boards (I believe)... they were made to work with momentary switches.

    So... put a momentary in there with the Hasbro and it should work as expected.

    As another example that is a bit weird... if you were to put a momentary switch in with an FX board... well, the Force FX board is made for LATCHING switch types. What happens is this:

    * First press does "nothing" (that you can detect)
    * Second press turns the FX on
    * To shut off, you must double-click again

    The PROBLEM with this is that the first press actually CLOSES the circuit, and although it does nothing visually or with sound... the batteries will start draining as the FX sucks current out of them like a Hoover Deluxe.

    I just threw that example in there to show that... although you CAN use most any switch type with whatever board... you'll get wacky results (often undesirable in many ways) if you don't match 'em up.
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