10 and 15 watt COLOR LED's

[Zero Unit]

For which color and which power level?

For the best of the 10W:
Green typically gets 759lm @ 1000mA (U-bin).
Red typically gets 485lm @1000mA (S-bin).
Blue typically gets 205lm @ 1000mA (N-bin)
UV typically gets 3700mW @ 1000mA (R-bin).

[Malaki Skywalker]

For which color and which power level?

For the best of the 10W:
Green typically gets 759lm @ 1000mA (U-bin).
Red typically gets 485lm @1000mA (S-bin).
Blue typically gets 205lm @ 1000mA (N-bin)
UV typically gets 3700mW @ 1000mA (R-bin).

For a start you would need a very very big battery pack second imagine all the heat that thing must give off that would need to be a major heat sink, its a nice idea and all but it would undoubtedly be very hard to pull off

[Zero Unit]

Exactly, hence why I said the only semi-practical application would be a proto-saber style hilt, though the power cord would have to actually be a power cord, and not just for looks. The battery would be too big to fit into any decently sized hilt.

[Novastar]

Regarding the heat, well... if the entire saber hilt was crafted to act VERY efficiently as one big heatsink... and the driver used was doing SOME sort of PWM, or at least technically "turning on and off" often enough with enough flicker... and you made sure to use some really nice heatsink paste for extra luck... AND you essentially polished the heck out of the star base on the LED and the heatsink point it met up to (basically "lapping" the heatsink and LED base)...

...this MIGHT be able to work.

Granted, it would indeed be an expensive venture. And yes, for the experiment, I'd say pay no mind to fitting everything into the hilt as of yet, since prototyping it for proof-of-concept would be most important... before wasting your time fitting the cells "perfectly"... only to find the whole thing would just get too hot!

I, for one, like to experiment, and would try this. I don't yet have the time. But I might someday!

[TroyO]

Mouser now carries these, in single unit quantities.

http://www.mouser.com/Search/Refine....38&Ns=P_SField

I'm thinking about trying this out. By the way, the "stick" this is mounted to is actually a flexy PCB, the actual LED is 7 MM x 7 MM, so it shouldn't be all that hard to use. I'm actually thinking the copper heatsink, to a MHS blade holder, sink tube and some thermal adhesive. I would think as long as I get the optics at the right height with some creative modification of the holder it should work.

I'll probably work out a custom battery pack, not sure but it shouldn't be that hard.

Damn.... the star's would be such an easy upgrade tho.. LOL from 140 to 380... and only $31....

[LeMoel]

would a 9 v run these?

[TroyO]

A single 9V? I doubt they would have enough oomph (Amps) available. A pack made out of AA or AAA's should be able to do it. I have another post going in the LED Wiring forum where I'm so far talking to myself, but I think I've figured out how to run these guys using the drivers that are already available, with normal battery packs of 4 AA's.

[Marsupial]

keep in mind that a 9V battery is a serie of 6 AAAA cells (quadruple As, as in - smaller then triple As)... therefore, a 9V battery won't have much power compared to 6 AAs.

[TroyO]

Yeah, I hadn't thought it all the way through. I was thinking you could divide the array into 4 seperate LED's, each running 250 MA at 4.something volts. I realized afterwards that you still need 1000 MA through each LED... 'Doh! You can divide the voltage that way, but not the current.

Current thought is 2X 700 MA BuckPuck's @ 9.6V using 8x2100 MAh AA cells.

[darthnerdold]

WE just want to kill ours eyes with brightness, don't we! jk, I like 'em bright too, but I don't want it to appear white because my eyes can't handle it.