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Thread: 10 and 15 watt COLOR LED's

  1. #11

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    How big of a hilt are we talking for the 10W with 4x 18650s (which I forgot existed until mentioned here)? 14 inches? 16 inches? 20 inches? Because I had intended to try out one of those 10W UVs (yes, I'd buy all 73 (for $85, it isn't too bad), keep some for spares, sell off the rest) on a 14" hilt with no sound in the near future.

    As far as heatsinks, I assume we would need a large block of metal (copper ideally, aluminum alternatively) inside to absorb it, right? I don't intend to have the saber on for more than maybe ten minutes at a time.

  2. #12
    Council Member Novastar's Avatar
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    In terms of the 18650s, well, that depends on how wide your OD and ID is but... let's give this example:

    With a 1.5" sink tube (the right kind), and probably a little sanding...
    You could fit two 18650 side-by-side (double-barrel shotgun style if it gets it visually for you)...
    And then another set side-by side...
    This would take up a total length of about 5" (2.5 + 2.5).


    You could not do this with an MHS, and you most certainly could not do this with a 1.25" tube. In all likelihood, I'd say you'd want a custom tube with JUST big enough ID to get the batteries in there as above.

    Another option is to go with a super long "stick" and run it up and down the course of the entire saber (so 10"), and overlap other items... but that might not work depending on switches, electronics and so forth. Then again... if you are going for just a resistor--or a small puck--you might have room!

    The key is either making mock-ups to test fits... or just experiment once you have most of your parts.
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  3. #13

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    I see. Thanks for the information, it gives me a couple of ideas.

  4. #14

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    Additionally, you could squeeze the sinktub so that it's no longer truly round, more of an oblong - that would fit 2 18650's side by side. It would be more like a katana hilt. It'd also be very comfortable in the hand, provided you use the right wrap or cushioning and grip material.

    Be sure to have the heatsink mounted before you compress the tube, to keep that end round.

    After I get through the holiday rush, I'll take a look at this more intently.

  5. #15

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    You might be able to put it in a full Maul and disguise it as a Tatooine mode the whole time.

  6. #16
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    What is it with you and reviving ancient threads?
    You do the same thing on FX Sabers all the time
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  7. #17

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    Sorry. It was just a suggestion. And I haven't been here for a terribly long time, so why not give a suggestion?

  8. #18

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    I am no genius when it comes to LEDs but could you take one of those 15w cut the board down and re-due the solder points, or something like that, so instead of 45mm it would be like 10 or 15?
    "Once you accept it, the dark side is with you forever."
    ―Freedon Nadd to Exar Kun

  9. #19

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    Even so, the only way I can see using a 10W or 15W is in a proto-saber type setup, with the battery in a separate assembly.

  10. #20

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    If iam reading the pdf right it only gets about 120 light output(lumens iam guessing) at 1500mah and 11 something forward voltage.

    Does that sound right?
    Any intelligent fool can make things bigger and more complex. - Albert Einstein

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