10 and 15 watt COLOR LED's

[Dregan]

Credit this to Zero Unit, but did anyone look at these?

http://www.ledengin.com/ledengin_products-dataLZ.html

I'm looking at the 15-watt jobbies at the bottom.

You can run at 1000 mAh (not peak of 1500, but until someone gets a 1500 mAh driver...)

and they're only looking for ~10vF, or about 12v at the battery, which is easy to do.

Looking at the form factor, all I'd need to do is to grind an MHS heatsink so it's flat on one side, and these would fit in an MHS top to bottom. They look like regular optics will even fit.

After I get my UV done, I'm going to build one something with one of these, I think. (I'm running into delays on my UV because I put a wood stove in, and every free minute I have is spent cutting wood. On the upside, my gas bill this winter will be a joke.)

[Zero Unit]

Running one of those with a Thunder Power 5s 18.5v (for people who like to overdrive) 2100mAh Li-Po could work with a 40mm (~1.5") OD hilt. Dimensions are 100x34x33mm.

The catch with the 10W UVs is that they need to be bought in bulk (min. 73, for $85), and they need to be made before they are shipped, since they are not kept in stock.

Note that the 15W doesn't come on a star, as far as I can tell. It's on a 49mm long stick with the emitter at one end and the soldering points on the other.

[Hasid Lafre]

its got a 7mm foot print compared to the 4.something foot print that the 3w and 5w do. Wont fit to big

[Zero Unit]

That's because the 10W are really four emitters packed into a close-knit square under a single dome. The LedEngin 5W has the 4.10mm footprint though, and are 5W are all more powerful than the Lux versions, except for Red and Green, which are even.

Still, I'm tempted to try something with those 10W.

Perhaps these lenses could work:
http://www.led-spot.com/data/ROCKET.pdf
http://www.led-spot.com/data/CRS.pdf

Cree XR-C/E have a 6.8mm footprint, which is close to the 7mm required. Maybe with some very careful sanding, it could be done.

The LedEngin stars are 19.9mm, like every other star. The dome is 7.0mm, as we already know. If I am not mistaken, the Seoul P4 dome is 7.40mm at the base:

http://www.led-tech.de/images/produc...1168875648.jpg

Will not optics designed for that also fit over the LedEngin? The LedEngin is also shorter than the Seoul P4, so not enough headroom shouldn't be an issue.

Seoul P4 Star dimensions with an emitter:
http://www.led-tech.de/images/produc...1168875638.jpg

LedEngin star 10W dimensions:
http://ledengin.com/products/appnote...CPCBapNote.pdf

Height with emitter is 5.87mm, where the Seoul P4 is 6.8mm.

Mounting optics is not entirely hopeless, there is a light.

[Hasid Lafre]

Now whats the Voltage and current requirements for the 10 and 15W leds?

[Zero Unit]

Forward voltage on a Bin F white 10W is 12.8 to 13.76V. That will get you from 285 to 356 lumens at 700mA, if I'm reading the chart correctly. Typical electrical characteristics at 25 degrees Celsius say 14.0Vf at 700mAh though. Needless to say, you'll need one of those Li-Pos to power this.

[Hasid Lafre]

Your gonna need to run it off a resistor, drivers are out of the question. unless you do 2 circuts and a voltage regulator so you dont kill the boards.

Your gonna need a resistor of some sort or your run times are gonna go out the window.

Li-polys are the crap of lithium batteries IMO.

[Novastar]

You don't need Li-Po to power this. You just need the correct voltage from any battery source, and a nice consistent feed of current.

The 18650 Li-Ion cells technically have the best stability architecturally and the most energy density ounce for ounce vs. most other cells (even other Li-Ions).

You don't have to trust me... I got this information from someone well-steeped in the industry who works for Apple and handles quite a bit of the whole Ipod batteries thing (which are Li-Ions).

[Dregan]

4 x 18650 and a single 700 (or 1000) mAh BuckPuck would be the ideal setup for these. Eff running a resistor. A Puck will handle up to 32v.

It's a big hilt, yes. But there's alternatives to 18650's, too. If you are willing to sacrifice a little runtime, you could do 4 x RCR2's or RCR123A's

Also, I'm gonna let someone else do a 10 watt UV. That's the point at which I start caring about my eyes. Maybe after I get my 3 watt made, I'll reconsider. Definately an issue if I have to buy 73 of them, though.

As far as optics, I'm still of the opinion that I can make regular optics work, I just need to add a few milimeters of height to the optic holder, which is an idea I've toyed with before when the K2's first came out (and I made it work then, too)

The only concern I'd have about putting one of these together is heat management. When I do this, I'll be lapping everything and using Arctic Silver 5 and maybe even incorporating a cooling fan and vents. None of this is new teritory.

[Soulkeeper7700]

wow i dont even want to IMAGINE how bright a green 10 or 15 watt led would be... not to mention how hot it might get. but it would be blinding. would definitely win in any duel though.lol