Hey, Madcow could you elaborate a little more on what your doing with your mace conv. I, myself, am doing a mace conv with a K2, (hence why I asked the question)and if you could post diagrams or parts that I might need to do what you are doing. Thanks
K2 works with Tims Conversion kit just like the 3W LED...just have to make sure the K2 is in the star format.
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<center>If my grammar it is you do not like, live with it you will have to.</center>
Here's a link to my wiring diagram - I'll use a similar setup for my mace conversion. Just ignore the rechargeable battery etc.
http://rpetkau.photosite.com/~photos...4738635257.jpg
Save the file, and open it in a program that you can enlarge it.
As I understand it - the LED leads from the MR sound card switch the relay to allow the full current to the K2.
MC
You want to go home and re-think your life
Forgot bout the relay route...gonna have to look into that for my two mauls.....ill just have to get the resistors and the relays.
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<center>If my grammar it is you do not like, live with it you will have to.
Just to update: LED Supply now has High Current Blue and Green in addition to the white they carried before! K2's rock.
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'Your swords please, we wouldn't want to make a mess of things in front of the Chancellor.' -Count Dooku
Please forgive my ignorance...
But what's wrong with just running the LED directly threw the Switch?
Then it will turn on and off with the S/B and run directly off the Batteries (and whatever resistors may be needed).
Only thing I can think of is that the Switch can't handle the load, but I figure it's got to be worth a shot!
Have you read your Thread Index today?
FAQ
Official Designated TCSS Jester!
Wow! Everytime I am down for some reason we get a surprise in here.
Anyway, first off Firebird there is no reason why you cant run the sound board and LED off of the switch so long as the switch has two pairs of contacts.
Ok now for the K2 tests. First off Oklahoma welcome to TCSS boards. The logic that your using here won't work in this case as like Ambo and xwing pointed out the K2 LEDs are designed to do exactly what they do and that is more mojo in the same package. We could go all day on the technical talk of it but I am not sure all of us would be awake at the end[] (OK maybe xwing who is our Joe Friday would enjoy it [
]) Short version: If you just want to do a straight up conversion without any hoopla then using a K2 will give you a little boost as far as the white goes. I have blue and green coming and will comment to them as well once I have them fired up but the facts are what they are folks, 900ma in to a K2 is brighter then 900ma in to a Lux III.
Now if ya really want a bright saber we can talk 5w...
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<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by Firebird21
Please forgive my ignorance...
But what's wrong with just running the LED directly threw the Switch?
Then it will turn on and off with the S/B and run directly off the Batteries (and whatever resistors may be needed).
Only thing I can think of is that the Switch can't handle the load, but I figure it's got to be worth a shot!
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To add to what James said, there is also the issue of having the blade swich off BEFORE the retraction sound. With the relay - it should act just like using the existing wires.
Here's a link to the 5v relays I just ordered.
http://www.allelectronics.com/cgi-bi...RE_RELAY_.html
MC
You want to go home and re-think your life
But, James, I was under the impression that a 5w cannot even be run off an MR sound board
Correct, not directly.
<center>Read the FAQ or x-wing won't be happy.
Before posting did you check the Thread Index?.
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