New project - battery questions

[Jonitus]

The final customer saber of 2007 is leaving the shop tomorrow, so now I can concentrate on building sabers "I" want to build.

I am going to do a saber similar to the brass-laden saber that Corbin ended up buying from me. This version will have many of the features I originally wanted on the first incarnation, but was too pressed for time to implement.

One thing this new saber will have is a wrapping of EL wire on the ribbed section. It may be cliche now, but I like it and want it on this newest saber.

The problem I am running into is how to power everything. I was thinking of using the 2+2 14500 Li-Ion pack I have (1500mAh) to power the LED and the EL wire, but would the EL wire even light decent at that voltage? Would there be too much drain on the pack to give decent runtimes?

My other option I considered was a 4.8v NiMH pack from TCSS for the LED and the CFSC board, then a 9V rechargeable battery for the EL. I would have to figure out a charging option for the 9V or I would have to open up the hilt to charge it.

I am thinking two switches, one for each feature, so I can have the EL wire when I want, and not when I don't.

Thoughts?

[Jonitus]

*BUMP*

Fellas, I could certainly use some advice. All my parts are here and I'm itching to get started.

[Jay-gon Jinn]

I'm far from the expert you're probably looking for, but I guess I'd go with your two switch idea. Like you said, then you can have one on without the other if you wanted.

As far as the EL goes, I think all the inverters require 9 volts to run properly. I remember my EL saber got very dim when the battery ran down, and eventually failed to light. Can you test it first to see how it lights without the full 9 volts? It might not look bad at 7.4 volts with the Li-Ions.

[orko]

you will have to do two seperate charge ports or like you said open the hilt and remove the 9v to charge becase linking both sets of bataries to the same charging jack would be like piggybacking the batteries adding additional v and might even damage the boards or electronics your using. and if thats the case and you go the opening the hilt route, you might as well do away with the charge port alltogether removing both batts to charge and use the added extirrioron space on the hilt for customizing.

[neophyl]

Why dont you just get a 3v el inverter ? They run fine on 4.8v (even higher really). That way you only have one battery solution that can be wired up as normal.

[Jonitus]

Why dont you just get a 3v el inverter ? They run fine on 4.8v (even higher really). That way you only have one battery solution that can be wired up as normal.

To be perfectly honest, I didn't know there was such a thing as a 3v inverter. I'm kind of embarrassed now. 10 seconds on Google, and I found a 3v inverter for a few dollars. So long as it will run on 4.8 volts, I will get it.

The only downside I can see...it's a 2kHz inverter as opposed to a 4kHz like are sold in the shop. Doubt it will make much difference for the few feet of EL I am going to be using on the hilt, right?

Thanks Phil.

[Hasid Lafre]

Yeah it should be ok, If ya used a 4khz inveter on say maybe a total length of maybe a foot of el wire would prolly fry it or something.