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Thread: Hasbro Sound Board Fuse

  1. #11
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    Awesome, I'll try that.

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  2. #12

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    I just tried it on both boards and no go [], still not working....

    Less talk, more action........

  3. #13

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    Well the only other thing I can suggest is check and make sure that the board is getting 6V and then bypass the switch just to make sure, if it still doesn't work, Unfortunately I think it truely has become one with the Force.[] I know Corbin has a couple of sound boards that aren't working right now either, I have one where the Swing Sensor(+) broke on the board and can't be repaired, these things are just really delicate[] Hope this Helps.[]

    May the Force
    Be with You

    Marc E.

  4. #14
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    Yup, I've been super busy and I had a few minutes to burn between classes so... Sure enough I gator clipped both ends of the fuse and it started right up again.

    Thanks, GFORCE13. Do you know if there's any problem with permenantly bypassing the fuse? I don't want to do it on a regular basis if it will be easier to go belly up for good. If not I'm tempted to cut that little sucker out of every board I get.[]

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  5. #15

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    <blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"> Thanks, GFORCE13. Do you know if there's any problem with permenantly bypassing the fuse? I don't want to do it on a regular basis if it will be easier to go belly up for good. If not I'm tempted to cut that little sucker out of every board I get.

    <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote"> To tell you the Truth I permanently got rid of the Fuse on my new Led Saber, since I have had it intermitantly blow for no reason. Honestly all I think it really does is give the Board Reverse Polarity Protection, since it is just hooked up between the -Battery in and the rest of the board.

    May the Force
    Be with You

    Marc E.

  6. #16

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    Personally, I would keep the fuse there, considering there seems to be a shortage of sound module boards recently. Mine's still going. Also make sure you solder properly. You might overheat the electronics causing them to stop functioning properly When I have the time, I'll post a pic. of what I did.

    "All men die, but not all men live... which are you?"

  7. #17

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    steel can be right on that. if when your soldering and you get too much heat x-fering through a component, it can fry it, or melt something inside. i had that happen once on a long past project i did. i tried to repair/replace a part, and ended up with a junk pile.lol

    You dont know the POWER, of the dark side...

  8. #18
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    The key is to use a 800 degree soldering iron so that you don't have to sit there with the iron on the board waiting for it to heat up. The faster you get the iron on and off will reduce the amount of heat transfered to the part you are soldering. You can also use a pair of clamping forceps clamped onto the lead of the part you are soldering to help absorb the heat and protect the part, just clip the forceps on the oposite side of the board from where you are soldering. The forceps can be purchased from many places just search the web for forceps, or the next time that you cut yourself while working on a saber that requires stiches you can aquire a set from the ER, your choice on how you get a pair.

    Do-Clo
    Don't make me destroy you...

  9. #19

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    now thats funny do-clo

    You dont know the POWER, of the dark side...

  10. #20

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    another place you might find this fuse or one like it would be at www.digi-key.com they sell this brand. They also have the microfuse fuseholders, you solder this in instaed of the fuse so you can replace the fuse real easy. Also you can by them in eaches, not lots of 1000.

    The also have a slew of great momentary swiches.


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