Misinformation: Corrections

[xwingband]

I see it all the time on other sites. I don't post there and I have no desire to, but from now on whenever I see something I will update this first post.

The sad part is these people know enough to sound knowledgeable... but get it wrong and spread the incorrect information.

Let's see where this takes me:

• Maul blades. If you don't buy a kit from here or a saber made with the kit here... THERE ARE NO REPLACEMENT BLADES! They are an odd metric diameter. You can use standard 1" blades and bulk it up with tape or something, but if you want a snug replacement you are out of luck. Moral: Buy the kits!
• CONVERSION KITS! They are more than just for durability. You're going to have to deal with MR blades or sanding 1" blades down if you want replacements. The kits make your saber 1" compatible!
• Batteries... use them in sets. Don't mix chemistries or brands. You should do this to ensure they all drain right. If you are going to use types different than what you can buy at the store... BE SURE YOU READ UP ON PRECAUTIONS!
• Crystal Focus is not Mac compatible... YES! I've heard it, and it's WRONG. All configurations are in a text file that even a 20 year old DOS computer can handle. With all the available fonts... the CF is no harder than any other above the ordinary electronics configuration. The problem is Macs can't format the card correctly. You can change the settings all you want then grab another computer to transfer and format the card!
• Ionsabers- OR whatever their ebay name is at any given moment. YES, they were of the firsts to make luxeon sabers. if you want a luxeon history lesson find the Dewback Wing forum and read the LED threads there. It's actually fun to see how far things have come.
• I = 1W, III = 3W, and V = 5W... Not really. Besides that where would K2's or Rebels fit? That's why the classification doesn't have any connection to wattage. Wattage isn't even the best indication of brightness either.
  
  Wattage is Amps x Volts. So if you do the math by looking at a spec sheet the III Reds are higher wattage than 3!!! And for output wattage doesn't mean much. A III is the same characteristics of a Seoul P4, but the III gives 80 lumens to the P4's 240... same wattage but 3x the output!!!
• I have _____ do I need a resistor?!?! NO!!! Where does this come from. If you bought something better why would you use a plain old $2 resistor? Drivers replace resistors. Have a soundboard? Other than a Hasbro throw the resistor out the window!
• I'd like to convert the joe jedi lightsaber kit. How?- This is exactly what I was afraid of... people don't know what a conversion actually is, they just hear it's good and recommend/want it even if they don't have a flipping clue what it is. The MR Joe Jedi kit is ALREADY a luxeon styled saber. It uses a Prolight RGB LED. There is nothing to "convert" on it as it doesn't have an LED strip to take out.
• Wow that's as bright as a plecter saber! Well duh! Surprisingly people don't make the connection that Luxeons are Luxeons and that when we throw out the names of drivers and such it's still the same technology. Analogy: drivers and resistors are like cars. They all generally use gas and four wheels to get you somewhere, but some have power locks and a V8 engine while others you have to manually roll down your windows by hand and make do with a V4. Both will get you from point A to B but in various levels of comfort.
• I have a sound card and I still need a driver, right guys? NO! A sound card is a driver. You don't need both!

I forsee this list getting long... if you get the theme please add and I'll edit in.