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Thread: Jay-gon's PVC Hilts - Full tutorial on last page

  1. #31

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    Which screw are you talking about? The one that holds the blade is a standard 8-32 socket head screw that screws into a threaded insert that is screwed throught the pvc. For that I used a 15/64 bit. The screw that holds on the end caps is also an 8-32, but for that I tapped into the pvc. For that one I used the standard #29 bit that is required for tapping those threads.

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  2. #32

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    Well what I meant was....when you drill holes into wood, you use a bit smaller than the screw so that the screw can thread itself into the wood. I was wondering if it was the same idea with pvc.

  3. #33
    Council Member Novastar's Avatar
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    Trayde... you're thinking about "self-tapping" screws, which are sharp... and generally wouldn't be used in attempting to penetrate aluminum or steel.

    You are correct though that in general, with ALL kinds of drilling and tapping/threading... you would want to drill a hole that is slightly smaller than the screw... and then use the correct tap to weave/cut the threads into the material being made ready for a screw.

    Yup... the threads can't sit in the middle of the air!!!
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  4. #34

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    Okay, I see what you're getting at Traydemark. the wood insert that I used for the blade screw is threaded into a slightly smaller hole like you would drill for wood, but the endcap screw is drilled and tapped like a screw hole in metal, using the #29 drill bit and the 8-32 tap size.

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  5. #35

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    Okay, I believe Barmic asked me about using a white led in one of these:



    Here's my new hilt design:


    I thought the full coupler at the front of the hilt made it look out of proportion, so I cut off about 1/2 an inch, then put the extra piece on the pommel end. I think that balances out the look a bit better.

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  6. #36
    Jedi Council Member Barmic Rin's Avatar
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    Thanks for the pic Jay.
    That should be bright enough to keep a 4yr old happy without burning retinas!
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    Being so great, the owner of these wonderful forums and attached shop has filmed how to build an MHS hilt, here's the link:
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  7. #37
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    I'm really liking these kid friendly sabers, Jay.

    Makes me wish I could afford to build a bunch of them because the Orange County Saber Academy is going to start doing little "Jedi Training Academy" events with some of the local Boys and Girls clubs.
    Last edited by Jedi-Loreen; 05-09-2009 at 12:52 PM.
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  8. #38

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    That sounds like a lot of fun, Loreen! These really aren't that expensive to put together, and are very simple in construction. I built four of them in a matter of a couple hours. The biggest cost factor in them though, is the micropuck driver. At around $10 a piece, the really add up fast!

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  9. #39

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    that and you can get pex pipe and use that for blades.

  10. #40

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    I made up a couple more:



    This is a Lil' Tyrant II, I guess. I was asked if I could use the angle cut on one of them, and found a way to do it.

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