Hyperdyne blades

[Jedibum]

LOL ... oh boy ... the things that people say lol. OK ... so ... I have a Hyperblade ... currently I have the updated V2 driver with the amplified sound card. I have a V1 Blue blade that is the original 3-piece blade ... and I have 2 other V2 1-piece blades ... a Green and an Amber. I also had the original V1 driver before Jim came out with V2.

1). First ... I have almost a dozen Luxeon sabers (not including my MR conversations) ... and none of them come close to the brightness of the Hyperblade. I know people continue to want to fight this, but it's just a fact.

More than a year ago I took comparison pics of a Blue 3-piece Hyperblade with the V1 driver and a 5 Watt blue and posted those pics ... and it showed very clearly that the 5 Watt blue only matched the Hyperblade for the first few inches of the blade ... after that it was no match. I will post these pics again for newer people.

About the pic shown with the Luxeon 3 Watt, the Stock MR and the Hyperdyne ... this pic was taken by Master Yoda ... and it has been under a little scrutiny. Other moderators of fx-sabers say that an angled shot of a luxeon 3 is something called the "magic angle" or something like that. And it makes everything look great. I don't know if this is true, but I know my pics are all taken straight on with light in the room. And they are as close to what I see as it can get.

Now, about the duelability of the Hyperblade ... yes those videos are real. Hasid Lafre - I don't know where you are getting some of the things you are saying ... but I would stop talking to whoever they are coming from because it's some false information.

If you are using a 3-Piece Hyperblade ... then it is VERY duelable. And the concept should not be that foreign to anyone who understands Physics and force. The board is in 3 sections and connected by wire. Simple concept ... it can absorb and insane amount of force because it's in sections ... it's not one straight board. Now ... that said ... yes those blades are expensive ... and I COMPLETELY understand someone not wanting to take the risk. I myself keep my Hyperblade mostly for show. Also, the 1-Piece blade board is obviously meant ONLY for show. Since it does not have the same loose connections ... it can be damaged more easily. The benefits of the 1-Piece blade board is that it hides the gaps and comes out more even ... at the sametime sacrificing duelability.

3). The sound ... yes there have been numerous complaints about the sound not being great. And Jim is currently in the finishing stages of what appears to be a new awesome sound card that will definitely impress and be a big improvement over what he has now. I will hopefully be able to get one of the first ones in the next couple of months and I will immediately take video and post it.

4). The run-time. It's true, you don't get alot of time out the Hyperblade. In fact ... I would say if I have my brightness set at 7 or above I am definitely getting less than 45 minutes of run-time. This is a problem for many and totally understandable. Because of current battery technology I think it will be awhile till Jim is able to increase the battery life. The Hyperblade requires ALOT to stay as bright as it does. And even with his MUCH larger 11.1 volt battery pack (which barely fits in the MHS ... in some cases it doesn't ... just a matter of luck) ... you are not getting a lot of run-time. And for some that is enough of a downside to turn them off to it and again, I understand.

Also, yes you can install the Hyperblade in the MHS (if you can get the battery to fit) ... and yes the blades are removable.

So, basically, the Hyperblade isn't for everyone. I am not bias toward it, I have over a dozen Luxeon sabers (including my MR conversations) and only 1 Hyperblade ... but I do enjoy it alot. It is by far more complex and much more expensive than my Luxeon sabers.

For those who are interested ... here are some pics:

This is the V1 Hyperblade w/ Blue V1 3-Piece Blade VS. 3Watt Blue and Stock MR Blade
http://img220.imageshack.us/my.php?i...vshyperqw3.jpg


This is the V1 Hyperblade w/ Blue V1 3-Piece Blade VS. 5Watt Blue and TCSS Blade
http://img210.imageshack.us/my.php?i...vshyperwm4.jpg


Close-Up of the V1
http://img209.imageshack.us/my.php?i...closeupui5.jpg


V2 Hyperblade with Green 1-Piece V2 Blade
http://img223.imageshack.us/my.php?i...sc01914ul9.jpg


The V2 at C4
http://img220.imageshack.us/my.php?i...sc02090tu9.jpg

http://img222.imageshack.us/my.php?i...sc02104cd1.jpg

http://img233.imageshack.us/my.php?i...sc02179rc8.jpg

http://img523.imageshack.us/my.php?i...sc02184ey5.jpg

http://img517.imageshack.us/my.php?i...sc02330rq7.jpg


V2 Hyperblade with the new Amber V2 1-Piece Blade (No Flash)
http://img78.imageshack.us/my.php?image=dsc02536wk2.jpg


Close-Up of the V2 Amber (No Flash)
http://img233.imageshack.us/my.php?i...sc02537zz6.jpg


V2 Amber (WITH Flash)
http://img338.imageshack.us/my.php?i...sc02538sk1.jpg

[gundamaniac]

After seeing a blue hyperdyne saber at C4 myself, I can definitely say that the brightness was never an issue with me. The only doubts I had were as to its strength...I've heard about it but never seen it in person.

Like one rumor i heard at C4 was after one day when a bunch of us got into a huge saber brawl. Security came to break us up (but boy, that was fun while it lasted. all the MRs got busted up, but the people wielding MRs didn't even care). Later I heard from one of the guys at the big brawl that he joined a second huge brawl in the evening (which apparently didn't get broken up by security), and at the second brawl one guy was going around seriously beating people down with his saber as opposed to friendly blade-bashing. According to the guy I heard from, someone got tired of the beatings and picked up his Hyperdyne saber, then proceeded to smash the guy's blade so he couldn't fight anymore.

But it was just something I heard and never confirmed.

[xwingband]

That is a good summary Jedibum.

I think for comparisons you should use a better blade though on the luxeons. I might as well use my MR blades to wipe my butt because that's about what they are worth. A regulated driver vs. a conversion is a big difference too.

Basically if you want bright and don't care about anything else as much and the money to make one... sure go ahead.

Anyways... I feel I'm getting better bang for my buck with my luxeons and just for the price of a blade system (driver and blade) I can get two Crystal Focus boards. Easy decision for me, not that Jim would sell to me... 'nother story though.

BTW Jedibum... if you want better runtimes make your own packs. Jim is using smaller batteries than what is available. If three fit in an MHS he has to be using 14***'s. If you work out the fitting in the hilt details you could use higher capacity ones.

[Jedibum]

Hey Xwing! I must say, I'm a novice when it comes to battery packs and making your own ... but ... I would sure pay for someone to make one for me! In fact, I'd double whatever it cost you to build it. What I'd really like is a system where I can change out battery packs, so I'd probably want 2 or 3.

[xwingband]

I'm a big fan of the already protected li-ions. They make it easy because you don't have to wire in protection as each cell has it's own built in. So you can literally just solder them together like you would ni-mh batteries.

I've been buying from this guy here:
http://www.cpfmarketplace.com/mp/sho...d.php?t=166496

If Jim is using 14500's then right off the bat for less than 3/4" more in length you could get almost a 50% boost. If you plan the hilt well sometimes you can do great things like I recently was able to use c-sized li-ions that fit really well in the MHS grip sections.

[Eandori]

Well those blades certainly look bright. But again, comparing them to blue luxeon is a bad choice. Compare them to a well built Green Luxeon V saber driven at 1 amp. Or compare them to a Red Luxeon III overdriven. THOSE SETUPS are what really makes Luxeon shine.

Corbin's killer penny is a Lux V at 1 amp... has he ever compared his blade to a Hyperdyne?

[gundamaniac]

I only had a green LuxIII for C4, but when I took a picture with one of the hyperblade owners there, we stood back-to-back with our sabers ignited by our sides. My saber was almost totally drowned out- it illuminated a bit of my face. In contrast, the blue hyperblade illuminated its owner's entire body. That's a huge difference in brightness.

I mean, I know that my green LuxIII isn't set up the best way, but I'm not sure that a green luxV is that much brighter than my green LuxIII, to the level that the hyperblade was...

[Eandori]

I mean, I know that my green LuxIII isn't set up the best way, but I'm not sure that a green luxV is that much brighter than my green LuxIII, to the level that the hyperblade was...

A green Lux III is rated at 80 lumens, and the green Lux V is rated at 160 Lumens (probably like 180 or 200 when overdriven...) So yeah, Lux V is a LOT brighter. Especially when your setup truely channels nearly all the light into your blade evenly.

Ok, I just looked at all the video's and all over the HyperDyne website. Here's his gallery of video's and pictures: http://www.hyperdynelabs.com/hyperblade/gallery.php

I'm really not super impressed with the "durability proof" video's. I have personally whacked my Luxeon saber FAR FAR harder then that. I have even dualed with my Master Replicas and not broken LED's. Of course, after awhile some did break. But that was after hours and hours of dueling. I'm pretty sure that anything with electronics inside the blade cannot be as durable as an empty polycarbonate tube with reflective film in it.

Having said that... if Hyperdyne blades at least hold up solidly to "soft dueling" then that's good.

I'm still not convinced they are brighter then the PROPER luxeon setups though. I would like to either see them in person or see them side by side with a Green Lux V at 1 amp and good diffusion.

[Jedibum]

Well ... I'll say it again ... this brightness issue is just a losing argument. Every once in a while new people come around and try and fight this for some reason. Luxeons have a lot going for them, they are better than strip LED sabers in many ways. But this brightness issue is just a loosing battle. Right now a Green V2 1-piece Hyperblade will outshine a 5 Watt Green not matter what blade you are using or what set-up you have going. LED technology is getting better and better (like the Tri-Lux), who knows what will happen down the road ... but right now ... if we are arguing what is the brightest possible ... it's a Hyperblade.

But ... if some of you still need to see more pics ... I happen to have a 5Watt Green Luxeon that I am currently not using ... and I have a V2 Green Hyperblade. So I am willing to do a set-up with my 5Watt Green and take some comparison shots with my Green Hyperblade if you guys want it. I'm telling you the outcome will be obvious. If you guys want me to do it then I want you guys to help pick what set-up I use for the Green 5Watt so there will be as few "you should have used this ..." as possible.

Right now, for blades, I have many TCSS blades ... 1 Corbin blade ... 2 Ultra blades ... and many Stock MR blades. So you guys need to pick a blade. I have an Ultra Sound Card that I can use to drive the 5 Watt, or I can hook it up straight to the battery pack ... I'll need to know which you guys would prefer. And now to battery packs ... what I have is either a Dual 9Volt set-up ... an 8AAA holder ... a 7.2 Volt rechargeable pack ... or an 11.1 Volt rechargeable pack from batteryspace.com ... these choices are up to you guys if you would like to see the comparison pics.

[killphil]

If you are comfortable dismantling any of your blades, then I would try what myself, Eandori, and X-Wingband have experimented with lately-the "Erv" style setup: which is a double wrap of Corbin and 35cm-70cm Ultrafilm or any polypropylene type film wrapped inside it. Check the thread "relationship:even-ness vs brightness below this thread to see examples of what we have gotten so far with this blade setup. It's the most even diffusion I have ever seen.

If you don't want to do that, I'd say go with the Ultrablade, as they are the most even of the blade types you listed. If you are going to be powering the Lux V with Ultra's board, I'd caution against the 11.1v setuo, as that pack will more than likely rate well over 12v when fully charged and the Ultra sound board cannot handle over 12 volts, wouldn't want you to fry it. I'd suggest the 7.2, but you didn't list the mA ratings(it will need to be over 700mA's to properly power it), and I'd suggest running the Lux V in the Red/Amber or K2 settings, as that will give you the most brightness, but you'll need over 1500mA's on your battery pack.

Just my 2 cents, but I'm sure someone more knowledgeable will be able to confirm this ot give you better advice...

Look forward to seeing your pics, but I already know the Hyperblade will kill the Lux