Hey guys Me and A friend need some help

[Jay-gon Jinn]

I thought I heard my name mentioned! After reading this thread, and looking at the style 4 saber, I'd have to say the best way to build a hollow version would be to use Novastar's suggestion of two of the 1.5 sink tube adaptors, and blade holder #1. Also use a piece of 1.5" sinktube and 1.25 sink tube. All of the electronics will fit inside the 1.25 tube. You'd assemble it in a similar way as in my picture, using the split ribbed tubing instead of the slip-joint poly washers. Following the instructions at BYB, you would replace the 3/4" dowel with the 1.25" chrome pipe. Getting the ribbed tubing to fit might be a challenge, but it looks do-able.

Here are the parts I used from the store when I put that saber together:
style 1 blade holder

1.5" sink tube adaptor
If you're doing a double bladed saber, you'll need two blade holders, and 4 adaptors. Not exactly the $20 price range that BYB quoted, huh?

[Novastar]

Are you talking about this picture?



I see the 1.25 inch
then the MHS
then a 1.5 inch pipe on top of that. Is that right??

I still am really confused, could you link me to exact parts besides the electronics that we will need??

Thanks soo much. This is a great Prop community.

Hi Smarty... glad you like the TCSS forum--I do too. 98% of people are helpful, and everyone contributes quite a bit to welcome others.

The photo: yes--that is essentially it to the T. Where did you find that photo? It's a very good example, and pretty much the way I put together my Flange v3 sabers. (EDIT: Oh carp--sorry Jay-Gonn... that's YOUR photo... how the heck did I miss THAT saber... what the... I wanna see it now!!!)

The one weakness is the fact that the 1.25" sink tube is quite thing to have any real "threading" on it... but it will hold as long as you don't have TOO long an amount of the 1.25" sink tube part... and you can always "buffer" the area where the tube could have some give with O-rings, a rubbery glue, etc.

Perhaps one day, TCSS will sell a coupler that makes a 1.5" tube fit right to the 1.25" black anodized emitter/blade mount... but--whatever.

To sum up--you got it 100% correct.

[Jay-gon Jinn]

The photo: yes--that is essentially it to the T. Where did you find that photo? It's a very good example, and pretty much the way I put together my Flange v3 sabers. (EDIT: Oh carp--sorry Jay-gon... that's YOUR photo... how the heck did I miss THAT saber... what the... I wanna see it now!!!)

You didn't really miss it, Nova, you posted in the last couple pages of the thread!

I'm half tempted to try this design myself. It would be a lot easier and cheaper to do if we just had a simple adaptor without the threads or mounting holes to attach a 1.25 to a 1.5 sink tube.

[Jonitus]

Smartypants,

If you'll pick up the shipping cost, I'll send you a foot of ribbed black plastic tubing I have laying around the shop. I bought 10' of it and don't have much use for it right now. It WILL go over a 1.25" sinktube...with effort. Once it's on there, it isn't going anywhere. Let me know if you're interested. If so, PM me.

[Smartypants1635]

I thought I heard my name mentioned! After reading this thread, and looking at the style 4 saber, I'd have to say the best way to build a hollow version would be to use Novastar's suggestion of two of the 1.5 sink tube adaptors, and blade holder #1. Also use a piece of 1.5" sinktube and 1.25 sink tube. All of the electronics will fit inside the 1.25 tube. You'd assemble it in a similar way as in my picture, using the split ribbed tubing instead of the slip-joint poly washers. Following the instructions at BYB, you would replace the 3/4" dowel with the 1.25" chrome pipe. Getting the ribbed tubing to fit might be a challenge, but it looks do-able.

Here are the parts I used from the store when I put that saber together:
style 1 blade holder

1.5" sink tube adaptor
If you're doing a double bladed saber, you'll need two blade holders, and 4 adaptors. Not exactly the $20 price range that BYB quoted, huh?

So would a 1.25 be neccesary?? By the looks of it once the blade holder is attached to the adapter, you could just slide that assembly into the 1.5 pipe and screw it down with a thumb screw. Correct??

So I would attach blade holder 1 to the MHS adapter then the Adapter slides into the 1.5 tube, screw it down and add the Shower head. Does that sound like it will work.

Adam

[Smartypants1635]

Smartypants,

If you'll pick up the shipping cost, I'll send you a foot of ribbed black plastic tubing I have laying around the shop. I bought 10' of it and don't have much use for it right now. It WILL go over a 1.25" sinktube...with effort. Once it's on there, it isn't going anywhere. Let me know if you're interested. If so, PM me.

Thanks Anyway Jonitus, I already have an mini shop vac tube that I'm using.

[Novastar]

So would a 1.25 be neccesary?? By the looks of it once the blade holder is attached to the adapter, you could just slide that assembly into the 1.5 pipe and screw it down with a thumb screw. Correct??

So I would attach blade holder 1 to the MHS adapter then the Adapter slides into the 1.5 tube, screw it down and add the Shower head. Does that sound like it will work.

Yup, that would work. However, the entire point of why I went through the motions on attaching a 1.5" tube w/screw cap to MHS coupler to 1.25" to TCSS 1.25" black anod emitter... was to get the overall choke point, and add that sort of "levels" feel to the sabers. I'm rarely much on the sabers that are a giant cylinder (unless they are meant to be simple, simple, simple run-o'-da'-mill sabers)...

[Smartypants1635]

Well, I have some sheet styrene from my model shop that Im using to give it some depth on the outside of the hilt.

Thanks Sooo much. My friend and I will be making out order very soon. How long does the shipping usually take?? We'll post pics along the way.

Thanks again guys.

[Jay-gon Jinn]

The only reason I suggested using the 1.25 tube was because the instructions for the saber would use a 3/4" wooden dowel inside the saber effectively blocking any electronics, but if you've got another way to build it so it's hollow and sturdy, then skip it. Otherwise, I think you've got it figured out. Be sure to post up some pictures when you're done.