I want to build a complete saber but i'm quite confused.

[Petary791]

Seeing as i'm getting a job soon (lazy 17 year old,) i'm gonna actually buy all the crap i've said that i've always wanted to get. So a lightsaber would be awesome (I would for sure carry it on my belt everywhere including to class and at gigs and everything.) So on to the components!

-It appears to me that LED seems to be the best, so I think i'll go that route (if you disagree throw something at me.)
-I like this hilt, because any time i've tried the Sink Tube route, it always looks real stupid.
-I kinda like this blade holder, but if you think another one would look more comfortable lemme know.
-This pommel looks cool, and this insert is neat too. Would I need this to keep it in?
-I would like to change the color of the blades (unless there's a big drawback to it)
-Sound would be cool as long as it's not cheezy.
-A strap button would be cool.

So am I leaving anything out? Any advice? Thanks!



And FWIW, if possible, duelling would be great.

[987654321a]

Seeing as i'm getting a job soon (lazy 17 year old,) i'm gonna actually buy all the crap i've said that i've always wanted to get. So a lightsaber would be awesome (I would for sure carry it on my belt everywhere including to class and at gigs and everything.) So on to the components!

Good to see you really are into it.

-It appears to me that LED seems to be the best, so I think i'll go that route (if you disagree throw something at me.)
-I like this hilt, because any time i've tried the Sink Tube route, it always looks real stupid.

That will be fine as long as you get a pommel and blade holder.

-I kinda like this blade holder, but if you think another one would look more comfortable lemme know.

Ooooo. Good choice, I love that Blade Holder, I have used it more than 3 times and its comfortable enough to use.

-This pommel looks cool, and this insert is neat too. Would I need this to keep it in?

They are all cool. And no you do not absolutely need that to keep it in, you can use glue but i find that clip to be best to hold it in. And plus its only like .79 cents.

-I would like to change the color of the blades (unless there's a big drawback to it)

We have found that with EL technology just changing a blade with different colored el wires changes the colors easily. But an even easier way with LED is to get a luxeon K2 LED. You can also get a set of LEE filters but I have heard they are a pain to get now. But you can always get the colored disks in tims store.

-Sound would be cool as long as it's not cheezy.

You have 4 routes here. Hasbro, Master Replica Sound board. Ervs Crystal Focus V2. Ultrasound.

The Hasbro is kind of more primitive in sound meaning its not as realistic as the MR, or CF, or Ultrasound. The visual effects are more primitive but its still a good sound board.

Master Replica's sound board is a good option which I am currently running in my main saber. it does not have any visual effects but you will notice it fades in. It doesnt sharply turn on like a saber with a resistor.

I would go with Erv's Soundboard or Ultra's Soundboard, they are both amazing.

-A strap button would be cool.

What is a strap button? A slider switch you mean?

So am I leaving anything out? Any advice? Thanks!

Are you good with soldering? You dont need to be really good but if you know how and wear safety goggles you are absolutely fine.

Hope that helped

[Lord Maul]

Are you good with soldering? You dont need to be really good but if you know how and wear safety goggles you are absolutely fine.

oops, I never do that. I guess it's a better safe than sorry kinda deal, in case the solder "pops" on you. Guess I better start wearing them.

CD, that was a great post, I don't think you can say it much better than that.

[TheCheeker]

another option for changing colors would be to buy the quick connector kit here:
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/pc...e-led-kit.aspx

this gives you the option of swapping out your LED for another color without the hassle of resoldering. you use the quick change kit on the led of your choice now and then if you want to change colors later on you just buy another led and quick connector kit.

oh and it probably would be a good idea to go with a board other than the master replicas or hasbro if you don't have much soldering experience. i'm using a master replicas board with corbins driver and its a lot more hassle spending $35 or so on a busted fx saber, tearing out the electronics, spending another $30 or whatever on corbins board, and resoldering everything to work the way you want it to than it is just to buy the ultrasound board for example for about the same price and you get a lot less of a headache when it comes to wiring (at least from what i can see since i've never used it).

[987654321a]

Are you good with soldering? You dont need to be really good but if you know how and wear safety goggles you are absolutely fine.

oops, I never do that. I guess it's a better safe than sorry kinda deal, in case the solder "pops" on you. Guess I better start wearing them.

CD, that was a great post, I don't think you can say it much better than that.

Safety Goggles are an absolute must. Even if the solder doesnt pop. It is still like 500 degrees and the solder falling on the skin is hot! let alone if it pops on your eye.

[Do-Clo]

Are you good with soldering? You dont need to be really good but if you know how and wear safety goggles you are absolutely fine.

oops, I never do that. I guess it's a better safe than sorry kinda deal, in case the solder "pops" on you. Guess I better start wearing them.

CD, that was a great post, I don't think you can say it much better than that.

Safety Goggles are an absolute must. Even if the solder doesnt pop. It is still like 500 degrees and the solder falling on the skin is hot! let alone if it pops on your eye.

Solder is much hotter than 500 degrees when it is molten most irons are at least 600+ degrees and 700 degrees is pretty common, then you have guys like me that use an 800 degre soldering iron.

[Hasid Lafre]

Hi and welcome.

I would like ot point out that safty is a big consern when soldering.

As for the hilt I think you got a great idea going on here. If you want to add some accent design to it you can take some orings(the ones in the store should work) and wedge them in the grooves of the bladeholder.

As for colot changing. we all use a basic setup with the quick connectors for easy color changing.

A colored led will alwase be brighter than a filtered white led.

As for soldering herees some helpfull info from our frendly giver of the toast erv.

soldering guide by Erv

[Petary791]

-Sound would be cool as long as it's not cheezy.

You have 4 routes here. Hasbro, Master Replica Sound board. Ervs Crystal Focus V2. Ultrasound.

The Hasbro is kind of more primitive in sound meaning its not as realistic as the MR, or CF, or Ultrasound. The visual effects are more primitive but its still a good sound board.

Master Replica's sound board is a good option which I am currently running in my main saber. it does not have any visual effects but you will notice it fades in. It doesnt sharply turn on like a saber with a resistor.

I would go with Erv's Soundboard or Ultra's Soundboard, they are both amazing.

-A strap button would be cool.

What is a strap button? A slider switch you mean?

So am I leaving anything out? Any advice? Thanks!

Are you good with soldering? You dont need to be really good but if you know how and wear safety goggles you are absolutely fine.

Hope that helped

Very nice. Thanks. And I wouldn't consider myself "good" at soldering but yeah I can solder. I have safety goggles too. I think, due to brightness, i'm just gonna go with a blue saber. And by strap button I mean a covertec clip (sorry i'm a musician and a strap button is what you attach the guitar strap to.)

I feel like I had another question but I just forgot.

[Jay-gon Jinn]

If you really want to be able to change the color, just use a couple of these: quick change kit

[987654321a]

Are you good with soldering? You dont need to be really good but if you know how and wear safety goggles you are absolutely fine.

oops, I never do that. I guess it's a better safe than sorry kinda deal, in case the solder "pops" on you. Guess I better start wearing them.

CD, that was a great post, I don't think you can say it much better than that.

Safety Goggles are an absolute must. Even if the solder doesnt pop. It is still like 500 degrees and the solder falling on the skin is hot! let alone if it pops on your eye.

Solder is much hotter than 500 degrees when it is molten most irons are at least 600+ degrees and 700 degrees is pretty common, then you have guys like me that use an 800 degre soldering iron.

Ouch that would hurt...