Blanking Cap Switch Covers

[Corbin_Das]

Considering they aren't made yet, they could be made to fit whatever setup we wanted. If the diameter of the thing was larger than the 19/32" flat spot surrounding the switch hole, then you wouldn't even see that area when it was installed.
If you wanted a replacement retention nut that was just taller, that would be a fairly easy thing to make I'd say. It would require the flat spot be milled on the hilt though, but it's an easy thing to have the shop do.


Corbin

[DACOTA]

Wow ,where did this topic come from ,or how did I miss it? I love this. The M.S.S. system.[Modular switch system]Woohoo, woohoo, woohoo.

I need to draw somthing up. I love the red knurled cap from the maul and other sabers,it really does give you a more star warsy feel.And it would look sweet in colors.

Hope you guys can see those.

[Bescherman]

Cracking idea. I've always felt (for a year of lurking here) that the switches are the one thing that really let the sabers down. They just generally look so naff on that nice shiny metal hilt.

I was pondering carefully dremelling down the outer screw thread of the switch to just what is needed to secure it, then cutting the length of the push switch down so you actually have to push it slightly inside the surrounding threaded part. That was my workaround for the crappy looking plastic/rubber switches that look very easy to accidentally hit.

However, this is a MUCH better solution! I'd definitely buy it.

[gundamaniac]

Like I said, I'll take a picture of my setup when I get home. It's essentially as Corbin described in his last post- a longer version of the retention nut. I was thinking that we could have a longer version of that nut, along with an optional contoured curved piece. That way, people who had recessed milled switch holes machined in their MHS pieces (like me) can use the new nut, and those needing to mount onto a curved surface can use the new nut with a contoured piece.

[LAN-ED-TUL]

i had a idea to use a switch box from parks and just use tims switch in the recessed hole in the hilt, polace the box over it with a hole drilled for the button to go thru. and another hole drilled thro box and into hilt. the hilt hole would be tapped to bolt the box down with. that would give you a side guard and prevent you from accidental hittin the switch.

the box i was intending to use was the R-type box.

but seeing as the part was 10 bucks and the shippin was 12.50, for a total of 22.50 for just a lil aluminum box, i said forget it, i will make my own instead.

so i plan on a similar type setup using maybe some aluminum railing of some kind thats beefy enough to use.

or ebay has one of parks clamps with the box mounted on it, that can be done in a similar fashion for the same price, and i get a clamp that look like a vader clamp.