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Thread: Blanking Cap Switch Covers

  1. #31

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    Quote Originally Posted by Darth Lars
    Quote Originally Posted by TimeRender
    Seems like a simple way of approaching a functional graflex-type button would be to machine a custom nut rather than a cap.
    A real Graflex button, or a good replica, is already functional. It has a disc that gets pressed down to make contact with two leads which completes the circuit. You could also place a switch under the button that gets pressed on.
    What I was trying to say is that in addition to a cap that could go on the end of the switches that Tim sells, he could also offer a custom nut. Tim doesn't sell functional graflex buttons right now. I'm fairly certain that what he offers are nothing more than a decorative screw. But a custom nut would make the switches that he already sells look more similar to a Graflex button. I don't think it would be perfectly accurate, but most of us aren't too worried about that anyway. I also don't think he should offer it to the exclusion of offering caps. Personally I would like to see both.

  2. #32
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    given the info and a few pic from Lars, I'm confident that the cap on my Parks is as accurate as anyone would want.

    Width: 14 1/4 mm
    Thickness: 5.0 mm



    Yes, that's the stalk of the button still on it... I broke it trying to remove the cap. Oh well...
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  3. #33

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    I'm loving the idea of these new switch caps...Is there any chance that these will actually be made?

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  4. #34

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    This isn't exactly the same thing, but here's a design I submitted for a switch cover that would keep it from being accidently hit:





    Even something like this could still have some sort of "cap" I suppose.


    Corbin

  5. #35

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    I've got something like that on my saber right now...which is essentially just two of the locking rings (the one that comes with the switch) taped together. It'd be nice to have it as one piece =D

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  6. #36
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    That looks like a PITA to get on... because it would also protect you from screwing down the existing ring.
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  7. #37

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    Oh. I just looked at the diagram again...so it's a cap that goes over the switch, then the existing ring screws down and pins the cap in place? I was imagining more it being like the existing ring, but about 2-3 times as tall so that the walls of the ring would prevent you from hitting the switch accidentally. I can take pictures of what I mean tonight; I have something like that on my current lightsaber.

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  8. #38

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    In order to keep the contour on the ring to blend into the saber, you can't have it spinning. The only way to do that is to have it in two sections: a contoured base and a threaded top section that replaces the retaining nut. That was actually the original design of this, but trying to simplify things lead to the one piece setup you see above. Here's the original design:



    I suppose if you wanted something neat, but more complex and therefore more expensive, you could have the two piece setup with a cap that goes over the switch stalk and fits down inside the top retaining section. That would allow for a whole new look. You could even change out the caps for crystal looking pieces, black, red or whatever other color you want, or even have them in brass, copper or silver.


    Corbin

  9. #39

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    The countoured base wouldn't necessarily fit some recessed pre-machined switch holes, right? In that case, I'm all for the two-piece section. That way, if someone has a recessed switch hole they can skip the countoured base and just use the threaded top section. Truly modular, though a bit more costly because of the two pieces...

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  10. #40
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    Yeah, what he said.

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