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Thread: Jay-gon Jinn's Second MHS and Hardware Saber

  1. #1

    Default Jay-gon Jinn's Second MHS and Hardware Saber

    Well, I had some extra saber parts lying around on the workbench and decided to put together another one. This is what I'll be using:


    I have a style 1 blade holder, two of the 1.5 inch sink pipe adaptors, a 6" piece of 1.25 inch sink pipe, a 1.5 inch tailpiece extension, with nut and washer, a 1.5 inch sink pipe extension, 12 1.25 inch white poly washers, a 10deg lens, a blue Luxeon III led with a heatsink, and an MR Vader sound board with a speaker (the old $2 speaker), and a 4 AA battery holder from Radio Shack.

    This particular board didn't have a clash sensor when I got it, so I "borrowed" one from and old Hasbro Qui-gon Jinn saber that I had lying on the bench and wired it in plac of the missing MR sensor. I then hot-glued it to the board:


    The first thing I did was cut the two pieces of pipe, the 1.25 and 1.5 inch extensios to the desired length, and in the case of the 1.5 inch piece, to the dsired angle. I went with 30 degreres on this one. (Sorry, no pics of that this time!)
    I then did a trial assembly:


    This gave me an idea as to how long it will be and where the electronics will sit inside.

    The angled hood/shroud turned out pretty nice!


    The forward grips:

    There are 12 of the poly washers on there, and it really has a nice feel to it. I slid those over the 1.25 inch pipe and sandwiched them with the two 1.5 inch sink tube adaptors.


    Using the holes in the adaptors as guides, I drilled the mounting holes in the 1.25 sink tube.

    This is the rpommel end of this saber:


    This is where it sits now:


    I drilled and tapped extra mounting screw holes in the top and bottom of both the rear grip and the emitter hood and assembled it. here's a close shot of the emitter end so far:


    So now I just need to drill for the switch, the blade thumbscrew, and add some scoring lines for details. Stay tuned....! ;D

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  2. #2

    Default

    Here's what I did to make the forward grip section:


    What I did was put the washers on in opposing directions to simulate a ribbed grip. I thought about maybe using some black ones for this if I can find some, but I kinda like the "pearlescent" look they're getting from the chrome pipe inside them. I got this idea when Novastar said that while he was building his "Flange" saber, that the 1.25 sink tube fits inside the 1.5 sink tube adaptor sold by TCSS. The washers are slid onto the 1.25 inch pipe, then it is slid into the adaptor, which is slid into the 1.5 inch pipe, creating the simulated ribbed grip section.

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  3. #3

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    I got the washers at my local hardware store...$.49 each.

    Just to better illustrate how this is going together:

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  4. #4

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    I drilled for the switch:


    I then cleaned up the hole and slighly countersunk the hole with a larger bit:


    I put it together, popped in my TCSS thick-walled double-wrap Corbin film blade and took a pic:


    Then I decided to take it apart to add some detail scoring lines to the handle, and maybe mess with the clash sensor, when the board stopped working. I got out the multi-meter and didn't have power to the board. After checking all the solder joints in the wire, I checked the red positive at the board and it had broken off, despite being covered with hot glue. So I re-soldered it and all is fine....except for that clash sensor....the Hasbro doesn't want to register a clas on impact...it'll do it instead when swinging the saber, and it doesn't seem to stop once it starts...it's wierd. I guess I'll have to get a hold of something else for that.

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  5. #5
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    Default

    Looking good so far, Jay. Are you going to paint the poly washers, or leave them as is?


    Whoa, you posted more since while I was writing my little post. Guess my question is answered.

    And you finished it!
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  6. #6

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    Thanks, Loreen! I think I'll leave them for now...I kinda like the "pearlescent" look they get from the chrome pipe inside them.

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  7. #7

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    Thats looking pretty slick Jay Gonn. Are you going to be adding anything for grips, or are you going to score the tubing like on your brass hardware saber?

  8. #8

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    need to decide on what to do for grips...should I put lines on the tube like I di on my brass saber, or make some neoprene grips like I did on my son's saber? (I had to replace the craft foam grips that came on that as they were deteriorating badly from handling the saber.)

    For reference:
    neoprene grips:


    Scoring lines:


    Suggestions, anyone?

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  9. #9
    Jedi Council Member vortextwist's Avatar
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    what did you use to hold the speaker on?


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  10. #10

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    Maybe do both. Instead of going length wise with the neoprene, cut it to a width of about a half an inch and go around the tube with score lines 1/16th" to 1/8th" from the edge of the neoprene. I'd do that with four or five grip sections, depending on how much spacing is needed.

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