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Thread: 05 MR Anakin - Done & kits available

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    Owner of the Custom Saber shop Strydur's Avatar
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    Default 05 MR Anakin - Done & kits available

    05 MR Anakin Conversion

    This tutorial will show you how to convert your 2005 Master Replicas Anakin to a 3watt Luxeon using the conversion kit that I offer. The saber will retain all sound functions and use the original switch. You must make sure your hilt is the same design as the one shown in this tutorial. I make no guarantees that the wiring etc that I say to use in this tutorial will be the same in all models. You will need to have basic soldering and mechanical skills to do the conversion. You can reuse the stock MR blade by putting some clear or reflective tape around the base to make it a tad bit bigger. When finished you will have one very strong saber as everything between your hands and the PolyC blade will be metal to metal with no weak plastic.

    Parts List
    MR Anakin Lightsaber
    Conversion Kit
    8.7 Degree Collimator Lens
    Lens Holder
    Cree Star LED
    Thermal Tape

    Optional but recommended
    Complete 1" Blade to replace factory one

    Stock photos of the saber





    Pry off gold button carefully using a small screwdriver or similar item. Then remove phillips head screw to remove chrome base.
    Do the same for the other button.

    Pry off by pushing small screwdriver in from ends.

    Remove phillips head screws.

    Take off the control box and remove the two small screws holding the switch in.

    Push the switch into the hilt, and set the control box aside.

    Slide the electronics out of the hilt.


    The two pins on the left get punched out with a hammer and punch, and the pin on the right (one on reverse side as well) gets pried out.

    Push the blade out.

    Push in the little pin, using a hammer and punch.

    Pull out the LED strip and disassemble the housing.

    Cut the wires off close to the LED strip.

    Solder your leads onto the LED. A P4 is shown, but a 3W will work as well. Now is when you put the thermal tape on (not shown). It sticks between the LED and heatsink.


    Blue wire on shock sensor connects to Positive terminal on LED
    Purple wire from connector connects to Positive terminal on LED

    Gray wire leave alone

    Brown,Red,Orange,Yellow,Green, and Blue wire from connector connects to negative terminal of LED

    Remember to slide the heatshrink tubing on before you solder!




    Now is a good time to test the electronics to make sure everything works.


    Set the LED setup aside for a while. Find the metal blade holder, and the original blade holder. To make the new one fit right, you have to cut a space for it from the original one. Line up the blade retention screw hole on the new one with the second hole down from the top on the original, as shown here.


    Mark where you need to cut, and then cut the piece.



    Now take the LED and heatsink combo and attach the optics to it. Then screw that into the blade holder.


    Tape all the electronics together. The hole where the switch comes out should be 90 degrees to the left of where the blade retention screw goes.


    Now take the Anakin tube, that is totally empty. Drill out the hole for the blade retention screw with an 11/64" drill bit. After doing this, the thumbscrew should slide easily into the hole.



    Slide the electronics into the hilt and pull out the switch.


    Use one of the two machine screws included in the kit and screw on the chrome bezel. Put the little washer underneath it, in the recessed area.


    Do the same for the other bezel, but without the washer.


    Finish reassembly. Congratulations, you have converted your saber! Pictures shown use a thickwalled battle blade.

    Last edited by Lord Maul; 05-28-2010 at 10:19 PM. Reason: added the rest of the tutorial

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