White 5 watt Luweon

[pockets]

well heres the thing, theoretically we could use reflectors, but youd have to find the sweet spot, the thing about that is youd need to be able to adjust its location with the blade in, trial and error, and find a way to secure it to said sweet spot.

[neophyl]

Simi having used several P4 stars in sabres already you can use standard luxeon optics and holders. Depending on the holder brand though you might have to modify it very slightly to fit around the led. That takes about 10 seconds with a scalpel/xacto knife.

My Imperial Knight sabre was about the brightest thing at CE and that uses a P4, although Im driving that with a proper driver rather than directly off the MR board I have in there for sound.

[simi]

So just use Lux III optices and make the opening on the bottom widen then, Phil? I did think of possibly having to do that but I wasn't sure if widening the bottom to accomodate the taller P4 LED would mess up the optic. Well if it is good enough for you than so it shall for me, thanks for the info on that. Have all you guys E-mailed each other on what a dumb @$$ I am yet? lol

[xwingband]

He's talking about how the holder will sit on the star itself... at least I think so. All non-luxeon stars may be slightly different. I don't think he's referring to changing the optics itself. That would be a little dangerous.

Alrighty... to show some results. Here's my Ani conversion. All is the same. Batteries, blade (double wrap of corbins), filter, etc... The only difference is the RIGHT is before with a K2 (wired like a normal conversion) and the LEFT is with a Seoul P4.



Now the shade changed a bit. The P4 was a warmer color than the Luxeon. I think it's darn clear it's MUCH better. The filter takes away a the even larger difference in the straight up white.

I'd say people going for white need to do this... time to hit Tim up on potential stocking.

[Darth Derg]

On those P4 LEDs...How would they work with Erv's board? From what I read, if they are set up as if they were a Lux III they would work fine (1A for white/blue/cyan/green) Correct?

[xwingband]

Yup, 1A.

[simi]

Phil, you maentioned on how you wired your P4 the right way. How did you wire it? I have Corbin's Driver and a Luke ROTJ sound board I am going to use in my Mara Jade saber with my second P4. If you have a better way of wiring it please let me know. I'll be able to do so hopefully with that one at least.

[neophyl]

On the optics front I did mean just modding the optic HOLDER not the optic itself as thats all thats needed to make them fit with the P4.

If you have a corbin driver to supply the led then you are there already Just follow the wiring guides for using a Corbin driver with a MR sound board (make sure you get the correct switch version).

On mine I didnt use a corbin driver (didnt have room for it) so I used a konlux 1A driver for the led and a Maul fx for the sound. Easiest way was to use a double pole double throw switch as that way you arent making one set of electronics switch the second (which is possible but a bit more complex).

I know alot of people do use the MR board to drive the blade led but for me it just doesnt cut it. There is definately a very noticeable difference using a proper driver.

[tobu]

Hi there,
I've finished my MR Mace conversion.

I used the Seoul P4 with the MR soundboard and the Erv's driver dimmer!
Erv's filter and Corbin's blade!

You can see it here

[darthdan]

I dont know, I have done a resistored K2 white, a resistored P-4, and an Atlas with a buckpuck and really, the K2 and the P-4 were pretty much the same. The Atlas is a bit brighter, but not by much.