My First Saber...

[IcyDeath]

Hi, I'm new here and I will be ordering and building my first FX lightsaber and would like to use mostly MHS parts. I'll be updating with pics and eventually a video (if I'm lucky enough to figure all of this stuff out and make it). I need it for a Halloween party, so I am giving myself a lot of time to buy/build it in stages as I get my savings and convince my wife, lol.

Here is my list of what I THINK I need broken down. I am not sure on alot of it though and will describe why throughout, so any help appreciated.

Base/Hilt
MPS Pommel Style 1 (Not closed at the end possibly for insert/speaker?)
MPS Insert Style 1 (Closes end of Pommel for a speaker to face out of?)
MPS Clip (Needed to attach the Insert to the Pommel?)
MHS Double Threaded Hilt Style 2
MHS Screw On LED Blade Holder Style 2
8-32x13/32 Black Thumb Screw (For Blade Holder)
Switch Push On/Off Black
Covertec Clip Button
Covertec 8-32 Socket Screw
Covertec Clip
1-2/16 ID O Ring x8 (For grip on the cut rings of hilt style 2)

As you can see I am not sure how to set up the speaker so it can be heard. I assume the open end of pommel style 1 are for the insert I listed, which asks as a speaker grill?


Electronics
Plecterlabs Crystal Focus Saber Core V2.5
Plecterlabs Deluxe Speaker
Plecterlabs Rumbling Force Feedback Motor
TCSS LED Basic Electronics Kit - 3wRed

I'm not sure if there will be enough room or what to do for more room if I need it for all the electronics to fit. I may go with the 4.8V AAA 1000mAh NIMH Rechargeable battery pack and charger instead of the one that comes with the basic led kit.

Blade
TCSS Corbin Style Battle Blade (Unsure of length)

The blade is pretty easy decision wise... Except I'm not sure what length I'd like. Can anyone tell me what the non-Yoda MR FX Sabers blade lengths typically are? I also want to make sure the 3w Luxeon will actually light the blade size I choose well enough.

Thanks for reading my large first post and for any help you can offer me. In summary here are my worries...

1. Am I missing anything I need to build an FX saber?
2. Not sure about the speaker and pommel setup.
3. Will it all fit, if not what are my options to make it fit?
4. Length of the Blade for a 3w Luxeon to light up well.
5. Do I need to like glue/tape the driver board and battery pack inside?
6. Anyone know if the Plecter driver board needs just 2 buttons to control everything?

[goldsaberwarrior]

I personaly think you should use a blade around 30-35 inches. The LEDs here will in most cases light a blade up to 40 inches in length. As far as what hilt parts you will have to use I can't help you there. You will however need to drill a hole in the holder or somewhere on the saber near the end so the screw can hold the blade. If you're going to use the crystal core focus you won't need the resistor that comes with the package. All drivers EX: the crystal core focus, corbins driver, the upcoming ultra board, and even hasbro boards, all take the place of a resistor. You will need to use a battery power source that will get you around 1400 mah if you intend to use a Lux3 red. A good place to get an idea of what mah you need is the LED resistor chart here.
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/t-resistors.aspx
As far as what parts you use to make the hilt you will more than likely have to sort that out yourself. I'm still working on my first saber myself and as far as I can tell you it's usually like this. In most cases where saber building and/or modding goes it's simply a matter of soldering everything and putting everything together and making sure it works.

[Jedi-Loreen]

The only way to know if everything will fit inside just the hilt is to lay out all the electronics (or maybe wire it up too) and see. You should allow for some air space behind and in front of the speaker.

If you need more length, you can either get and extension piece, or add a double female connector in whatever length you need.

You will need 2 holes drilled and tapped. One for the blade retention screw in the blade holder (personally I prefer the larger 10/32 screw to the 8/32, I don't know why the black one isn't offered in the larger size), and one for the Covertec screw.

You do want to have a higher current output than 1000mah, to get the full potential out of your red LED. Not sure if the CFSC board will bump that up from your battery output or not.

[xwingband]

You're understanding it all just fine.

There is room. Even a step up to 4AA 2x2 pack like Tim sells will work. Erv's board is slim and will fit on the battery pack really saving you space. Just protect it from jiggling and hitting the wall and it'll all be good.

[Barmic Rin]

Sounds like it should all fit.

If you use a MPS pommel, then you have no worries about the sound, those at CE that I met can attest for my hilt, using a pre-MPS with 5 holes drilled. You could still hear it above the ambient noise there.

I'll have to invest in one of Erv's new speakers, always looking to upgrade my hilt.

Blade length is what you're comfortable with: the average on here is around 34-36", but it's your choice. I can easily use a 32" main, 20" off-hand.

I bubble wrap my board inside my pommel, works a treat.

Good luck!

[IcyDeath]

Wow, thanks for the helpful replies everyone. I am glad this should all fit ok and I never thought of using bubble wrap Barmic, thanks that's an excellent idea.

I have some bokken and a katana / wakizashi I think after measuring the blade lengths and trying to get a handle on that I'll go with a 36" blade.

Ok, so the CFSC board has the resistor, but I can't find a battery pack thats rechargeable that is 1400mAh. If I get the 4AA 2600mAH does the board bring it down to the correct mAH like it does with the volts/ohms?

[xwingband]

You don't need to worry about that... Erv's board regulates the current and will draw just fine from a 1000mAh pack. Just don't expect fantastic run times. It'll be maybe an hour with change to spare.

Really I'd recommend the 4AA pack. If you are smart with the space it can all be put in there.

[pockets]

mA is the current you need

mAH is milliamp hours. basically how long the batteries last, not the amount of current, the higher the better always

[IcyDeath]

I understand now, I'll go with the 4AA rechargeable pack, as I'd like longer use times. Also, what's this about building a recharge port? Am I going to have to cut into the pipings? I am no good at that and don't even have the equipment for it. I saw Tim offers a smart charge connector for his batt packs and the jack itself. I'm not sure how to install this though, whats entailed?

[pockets]

http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/fo...pic.php?t=2402