I used 3 buckpucks with 3 potentiometers that have built in switchs.
I used 3 buckpucks with 3 potentiometers that have built in switchs.
Tim
The Custom Saber Shop
Thanks Novastar I think your "spell" chart [hmmm isnt that another 'franchise' ] is a brilliant idea too and yeah we definitely should have a thread where we can report those results for everyones benefits once the Endors become available here and as results come in make a chart for them.
I've been thinking more about orange which I admit is a particular interest of mine [my username on other non-SW boards is "Fyre"] and if I understand RGB correctly [which I may not and stand to be corrected] orange is Red 255 Green 128 Blue 0 or RGB 225/128/0 therefore the red is twice the green [?]...which makes me think that if one was using an RGB Endor with pots to get get orange then one would want to dial red all the way up and the green to half power? Which is making me think if one used two reds and one green then one would have the 2:1 red to green ratio with no blue required for a good orange but at the FULL 3-LED brightness potential of an Endor rather than 1.5 LED 'half power'???
Does that make any sense?
If it works out that way and Tim offers custom combinations I suspect that might be a popular one with those of us looking for a good bright orange...I'll certainly want to try that combination out to see what results it gives.
For similar reasoning I'm thinking that there should be a combination of red and blue custom endor that would be brighter than a RGB with the green turned all the way off and the red and blue mixed to whatever levels...it would be interesting to get a red/red/blue and a red/blue/blue if offered and see which works better with all of them maxed but I may not have the $$ in my saber budget to try that right away if Overlord 'drops' around then so I'll also look forward to finding out from others which is the best purple combination because I'd love a great bright purple almost as much as a great bright orange.
Bright custom-endor orange and custom-endor purple sabers for Jar Kai dual wielding; yeah baby!
Last edited by Onli-Won Kanomi; 03-19-2008 at 01:33 AM.
Hey would this acrylic spot lens work for the RGB led? or would it just screw it up?
L2 6° Spot Diffuser Sub-Lens For Luxeon K2 LEDs
http://www.electronics-supply.com/ad...2-1-dif6-l.jpg
or this?
Polymer Triple Color Mixer for Rebel
useable with Luxeon Rebel
http://www.led-tech.de/images/produc...1189073920.jpg
Those optics are for their own special PCB's, not the "endor".
http://www.led-tech.de/de/High-Power...181_49_85.html
RED LEADER Standing by!
Yeah but cant you just power three seperate rebels together ?
Another thing i dont understand is why is graven's RGB endor so much brighter than Tim's endor?
optics? more power with a sound board? the force haha jk
Given that they are different cameras there is no basis to say one is brighter than the other...
It's certainly not the driving though. The optics were different though. Grayven hacked together a reflector where Tim used the standard ones (I think).
RED LEADER Standing by!
tested an RGB endor in serie @ 750 mA. Works fine with crystal focus. Totally non interesting way to produce bright white, but I'm still waiting for other colors to build a second tri-rebel
now, facts :
- the board resist up to 12.5V. Above that the main regulator starts putting ripple on the 3.3V that powers the core, and the motion sensor starts measuring silly swings. It does not fry at 13V.
- 3 x 3.6v li-ion cell fully charged start at 12.6 V. It does work with CF without burning anything.
- making a tri-rebel or the same color is possible too. It's just a matter of luxeon forward voltage. For 3 red, it's about 2.9x3 = 8.7V, so 3 cells will work and regulate current.
For blue, white, green etc : 3.7 x 3 = 11.1v. Exact voltage of the pack + losses, you don't get the 700 mA in the loop, you don't get full power.
For those colors, it's probably better to have 3 in // at 1.5 A => 500 mA each. Brightness regulated but rebel won't eat the max they can handle.
this of course according to the fact we end with nice optics.
So, again, my board provides the technology until a certain point. One thing is sure, I won't make a board with a big regulator as big as a tree "just" to handle 24V so that a ledengine LED can be powered : you won't be able to have a 10W thingie close to a 3.3V electronic. Finding 24 V / 1A power supply solution is also an issue.
Now, back to something more "rgb" : I'm going to test this afternoon the RGB selector.
[ADDON]
RGB setup fully working with an additionnal parameter in the SD card :
- no RGB - blinking / sequenced LEDs are enabled
- RGB 1 : use blinking LED1 to activate a power xtender board to select on of the LED of the RGB setup
same folr RGB 2 and 3
the système uses only 3 little power xtender boards and 8 wires : common luxeon + (common anode), common luxeon (-), 3 wires to the luxeon, 3 wires from the board to remote control the power xtender
[/ADDON]
Erv'
Last edited by erv; 03-22-2008 at 06:44 AM.
Props Electronics
http://www.plecterlabs.com
oh ok different camera and such i get it thanks xwing... but i need your eyes for something xwing,
does it look to you that graven actually used an ultra blade and not a do clo wich is ervs style with poly p and corbin film> cuz it looks like an ultra to me but since you have alot of experience with ervs style i thought could tell a bit better?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eUpPx2VLhr4
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