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Thread: New 228Lm @ 1000 mAh 3.7vf star LED

  1. #11

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    The problem is that Seoul doesn't make colored LEDs - at least, not that powerful. They do have some blue/royal blue (for dental applications), but I've not heard back from DX yet about them carrying them.

    The LED I ordered is going in a flashlight, but I'll order one or two more, I'm sure. I have a white blade K2 @ 140 lm saber that I want to update now.

  2. #12

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    Quote Originally Posted by tobu
    and about this

    240 lumen at 1000 mA (3W or 4W?)

    what do you think?



    I have bought 2 of them, I will try them as soon as possible.
    The one I referenced above is a newer die - which achieves 228lm @ 700 mAh vs the 240 @ 1000. In other words, it's more efficient. I'm also thinking that it can take a full 1000 mAh, as can the rest of the Seoul's I've played with. With overdriving like that, you risk shortening the lifespan of the emitter, as well as general overall failure (burnout) - but I've seen the P4 binned LED's run 1000 mAh with little ill effect, and that's a lower-rated emitter.

  3. #13

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    Yes but with a 100,000 hour life time you overdrive it 50% thats 50,000 hours. has anyone ever put 50,000 hours on an led?
    Any intelligent fool can make things bigger and more complex. - Albert Einstein

    Reaganomics not Obamanomics


  4. #14
    Council Member Novastar's Avatar
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    Ask someone that same question about SIX years from now...
    ~~ GREYTALE NOVASTAR (Writer, Director, Choreographer, Sound Designer, Actor, Saber Designer, Vocal Artist)
    ~~ Balance of Power, EP I: "Into The Lion's Den"
    ~~ Balance of Power, EP II: "Ashes of The Phoenix"
    ~~ The Crystal Focus Sound CD Compendiums... are HERE! ~~
    ~~ Nova & Caine's Staged Combat System... comin' SOON!
    ~~ Crystal Focus Wiring Guide

  5. #15

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    it's not the shortened life span that concerns me, it's the blink-blink-fizzle possibility...

  6. #16

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    then thats like putting a 9V directly to an amber lux3. no resistor nothing just straight to it.
    Any intelligent fool can make things bigger and more complex. - Albert Einstein

    Reaganomics not Obamanomics


  7. #17
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    Well, Corbin and I were talking about how going sans resistor IS possible... even with HIGH voltage.

    The trick is knowing how much your batteries can spit out all at once. Corbin said he had a saber staff running off of 4AAA alks for one LED, and 4AAA for the other. That means 6v each LED... and yes, it was a red-O/Red Lux III setup, so those LEDs "want" 2.95v... with no resistors.

    So why didn't the LEDs fry?

    Think about it, and you'll understand why.
    ~~ GREYTALE NOVASTAR (Writer, Director, Choreographer, Sound Designer, Actor, Saber Designer, Vocal Artist)
    ~~ Balance of Power, EP I: "Into The Lion's Den"
    ~~ Balance of Power, EP II: "Ashes of The Phoenix"
    ~~ The Crystal Focus Sound CD Compendiums... are HERE! ~~
    ~~ Nova & Caine's Staged Combat System... comin' SOON!
    ~~ Crystal Focus Wiring Guide

  8. #18
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    Ooo... *raises hand* I know this one, lol.

    Rather ingenious assuming the staff doesn't seperate or turn on eithr independently.
    RED LEADER Standing by!

  9. #19

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    My cyan lux III did run with 4AA battery sans resistor for a while before I added it a sound board.

    the secret is the capacity of the battery to supply the power...
    measuring the current with a resistor setup in my meter, I never could pull 1 amp trough my luxIII, so I went on and tried without any resistors. It worked flawlessly*.
    OK, I do have a killer heatsink, its the MPP socket/heatsink combo from GraflexShop and would be suitable for a lux5 or maybe more.

    but the point is, most AA batteries (worst even the AAAs) can't supply very much more then 1 amp: my alcaline batteries couldn't supply it and would overheat if I try.
    As it can't supply ennough current, the battery pack delivers a lower voltage. Every batteries will have different caracteristics on that, but its mainly like its "already" used and low in voltage.

    The power will quickly reduce as the battery discharges. With a cyan LED, it will look green at some point.


    * This being said, it worked on my luxIII cyan with 4 Sanyo Ni-MH AA rechargeable batteries... it will be different with different leds / batteries combos. I definately don't recomment anyone to try before doing any measurments. You can blow off your LED.
    -Mars

    Embrace the luxeon side of the Force... to bring light, into lightsabers

  10. #20
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    Yup, Mars hit it on the head.

    However, if you think about it--there isn't much reason NOT to use a resistor when they are so cheap, so small... and ESPECIALLY if you try to get at least *CLOSE* to the LED's fwd V and current "wants" wherever possible.

    You really don't need to be giving a Lux III Red-O freakin' 7+ volts. Just give it 3 and be done with it! If you're so high on crack for wanting to give it 12v or something goofy and ridiculous, throw in a current regulating board (whether Erv's, Corbin's, or something as simple as a puck/buck driver, etc.) and be done with it THAT way!

    As it is, the "extra" voltage just gets turned into current for the mostpart when driving with a board. So it doesn't really matter unless you hook up like 20v or something really Darwin Awardy like that. Weasels.

    So--pay heed: if you're going "direct drive"... just give the LED "what it wants", and you should be fine. For extra safety--give it a resistor, or do all the measuring yourself to be certain that the batteries cannot "over give" to the LED and burninate it like bacon in a pan.
    ~~ GREYTALE NOVASTAR (Writer, Director, Choreographer, Sound Designer, Actor, Saber Designer, Vocal Artist)
    ~~ Balance of Power, EP I: "Into The Lion's Den"
    ~~ Balance of Power, EP II: "Ashes of The Phoenix"
    ~~ The Crystal Focus Sound CD Compendiums... are HERE! ~~
    ~~ Nova & Caine's Staged Combat System... comin' SOON!
    ~~ Crystal Focus Wiring Guide

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