New 228Lm @ 1000 mAh 3.7vf star LED

[Dregan]

I haven't, but it *should* work, though.

[Novastar]

I would have to agree, G... if it's rated at 1000ma, it's right up the alley for Corbin's board.

Incidentally, Corbin's board *DOES* drive the LED a bit higher... but also lower at times--super quickly... which ends up being technically "brighter" to our eyes.

In other words, I think it vacillates in between something akin of 1200ma to 800ma--a PWM "average" wave of sorts. You'd have to ask Corbin for more (maybe he can post some info on his board @ TCSS someday???) but it is essentially what he told me the board did when I was arranging BOP I back in 2006.

"Over-driving" an LED by a few mA (like 100 or 200) won't cause it any harm near as I could imagine. Uh, over-driving it by DOUBLE... (like instead of 700ma, going with 1500ma)... uh, yeah that's not good.

[GFORCE13]

Thanks Novastar for the information, I have it hooked up and all I can say is DAMN THAT IS BRIGHT!!! I will be posting pictures shortly.

[Raederle]

I'm getting a cree Q5 as well. Just wondering exactly what drive circuit are you using for it. Corbin's or buck puck or resistor or ? how about the optics? Does Tim's optics fit and which version.

Anyone have any other ideas as to how to drive this emittor at 1A for cheap(beside resistor)?

[xwingband]

The Cree dome is much larger than any other... so i'm not sure if it will work with normal luxeon optics. The Seouls are 100% compatible though.

For driving it... at $15 if you are dead set on 1A I'd go for the puck. I have yet to see a really good option any cheaper than that.

[Raederle]

So I am getting the impression that it is a size (height or width?)of the emitter dome issue and not an incompatibility of directional light transmission issue. Is that right?

How about a reflector style collimator a la ultra instead of a luxeon lens?
How does luxeon collimators compare to the ultra's reflector? On this topic, does anyone knows where to get cheap reflector collimators to fit a cree Q5?

Geforce13: how are you collimating your Q5?

I was also thinking of the buck puck but it seems rather big and the input voltage rather high. 5v-32v. I like to run things off less batteries so they can all fit in a smaller hilt. And since I have mostly NimH AAs, 4 might not provide enough Voltage. Does the buck puck regulate voltage as well.

There aren't detailed specs on Tim's site for Voltage output for each Vin. I am worried it might just be a constant current regulator. Or is the Vout just customized for a LuxIII? Strange that the buck puck seems to be a voltage step down convertor. Is that more efficient?

Boost-buck circuits are probably less efficient but it sure is nice to run things off a single or 2 AAs.

Might have to switch to using 2 3.7V Li-ions rechargeables instead.

[GFORCE13]

R here is the setup I am currently using in my MHS Stunt Hilt to replace the White K2 that died, I am using a 6AA(oops supposed to be 4AA/6V) Battery Pack and running it through a 1.5Ohm 5Watt Resistor and which I just realized is overdriving it a bit, but after my next shipment will put in the 2.2Ohm5Watt Resistor. I am using the K2 Holder and 5Deg Lens which both fit fine and since this is a standard Hex setup I would guess that a Lux 3 Lens and Collimator would fit too, will let you as soon as they get here. Since it is so bright I also have plans to upgrade my other White K2 Hilt which uses Corbin's Driver board and I will keep you posted on what he says as soon as I hear back. In the meantime here are a couple of pictures all using a thick walled blade and double corbins film and a K2 Holder and 5Degree Lens:
Top K2 through Corbins Board/ Bottom Cree through K2 Resistor

K2/Corbins Board

Cree/ K2 Resistor

Cree/ CSS Color Disc

[Raederle]

Looks like K2 and LuxIII optics do fit crees. Is that first pic with or without optics?

The cree looks like it has a much tighter beam than the K2. Nice.

Can't really decide if the K2 or the cree is brighter. You seem to be overdriving you leds even for 9v@2.2ohms

Ignoring batterypack resistance,
The cree is rated at 3.7v forward voltage which is less than the 3.85v of a K2 this means you need slightly more resistance than a K2 for 9v@3.9ohm=1.3A
even if you run the cree at 9v@3.9ohm you are outputting1.3A which is not good for a led rated at 1A or 3W.
But if it doesn't blow and the quality doesn't drop I think it's ok to overdrive it to get more brightness. The lifetime is pretty damn long anyway. But I don't think you really need 9AAs. It just increases runtime and the added battery resistance quite limits the current and efficiency.

I'd suggest rechargeable Li-ion packs at 2 x 3.7v=7.4v But you'd need a proper regulator for that as resistor driving would not be very effective.
They have less internal resistance as well and thus more efficient. Get protected ones though so they don't blow up on you while dueling!
They are so much smaller and pretty cheap on DX and help the environment.

CR123 packs from amondotech cost $1 per piece (Titanium brand) and they even match the batteries for you and wraps them together.
3xcr123@$3= smaller and maybe cheaper than 6AAs.

Alright enough of my battery obsession but I think Li-ion is the way to go for powering sabers

The Seoul Z-power p4 u-bin output is rated higher than the creeQ5 @1A
and just slightly lower @350A. Might make more sense to get the SSC which is cheaper and has the same die as a luxeon.
Comparisons of the Q5 and the Seoul anyone?

The filtered blade looks bright but not as green as one might like. So like the other thread with the SSC emitter. It seems green filters also gives poor results with the cree emitter. Lots of flare and looks more cyan than green but quite bright and I even spot a slight core effect in the pic. How does it compare to a Green K2/LuxIII?

How about trying it with a Blue filter and others. There seems to be good results there.

Anyway thanks for the pics. Very informative.

Looks like I gotta get my blade and optics soon.

[GFORCE13]

Sorry for the confusion I meant to type 6V (4AA) Battery Pack, damn typo and in the first picture I am running both the K2 Top Hilt and the Cree Bottom Hilt through a K2 Lens Holder and a 5Degree Lens and the picture doesn't due it justice but there is a huge difference in brightness between the Corbin Board Driven K2 and the Cree so out with the K2 and in goes my 2nd Cree I ordered.
------------------------------------------------
Update from Corbin Das he told me that his Driver will work great with the Cree and he recommends using a 4.8V Rechargeable Battery Pack to achieve the target Forward Voltage and Current.

[GFORCE13]

Okay another Cree update you can use the Lux 3 Holder it will fit after a slight sanding down, the dome completely clears and has plenty of room, but the square part underneath it is just a hair taller than the rest of the Hex Star will post pictures.