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Thread: Odd switch location, can it work?

  1. #1

    Default Odd switch location, can it work?

    Questions were raised in the gallery, and answered, and then deleted. So I figured we could talk about it here.



    As you can see, the switch is in the same location as the emitter. I wanted to try this to keep the hilt clean for spins and dueling without tearing up my hands.

    Here is my basic concept of how it will work. Over the MHS will be a sink tube piece, which I plan on cutting out a trough, notch if you will, for the wires to run from the switch to the v-groove extension piece. On top of that I plan on adding another piece of 1.5" sink pipe that will be cut from top to bottom, allowing me to flex it over the other piece of sink pipe. The notch on the outer sink pipe will be rotated 180 degrees from the other notch, protecting the wires and holding them in place. Having the entire assembly held in place by two (maybe more) screws, it would be easily removable for any work that would need to be done.

    Without having the pieces in front of me, it is hard for me to determine if this is feasible. Any comments or suggestions would be appreciated.

    Toil awhile ... endure awhile ... believe always ... and never turn back.

  2. #2
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    Default

    Getting a switch that small will be the issue. If you need a momentary... sweet no problem. Latching would be another story though.

    I think your idea of covering it is fine. PVC may be easier, but it's certainly a valid idea.
    RED LEADER Standing by!

  3. #3

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    why not put the switch on the bottom of the hilt or even the pommel?
    Darth Sequentius...Sith Lord

    Bringing light to darkness.

  4. #4

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    Quote Originally Posted by 987654321a
    why not put the switch on the bottom of the hilt or even the pommel?
    Or a thin slider switch that wouldn't protrude as much.
    TCSS Red Squadron - The most kickawesome fighting force in the Galaxy.


    Which Blue Luxeon is movie-accurate? Find out here.

  5. #5

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    yea. or use the force. Sorry i just had to say that.
    Darth Sequentius...Sith Lord

    Bringing light to darkness.

  6. #6

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by 987654321a
    yea. or use the force. Sorry i just had to say that.
    If only it were that easy .

    Toil awhile ... endure awhile ... believe always ... and never turn back.

  7. #7

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    I would go with a slider. THen all you have to do is make s small square notch in your hilt piece or have tim so a custom jobbie on it.
    Any intelligent fool can make things bigger and more complex. - Albert Einstein

    Reaganomics not Obamanomics


  8. #8

    Default

    I do all of mine in the pommel. True, turning it on one handed is a little tricky, but you will never accidentally turn it off...
    "vibrations within vibrations, traveling at the speed of color"

    "I've got a bad feeling about this..."

  9. #9

    Default

    Would you consider having a special housing machined that could contain a switch? If so, that might be the lowest profile you could go with. If you're going to be using a driver, you can often get them set up for use with a momentary switch. I know mine can be programmed that way when they're made. That would allow you to use a super thin momentary tact switch or something under a plunger of some sort.
    I'm not sure how you'd attach the bexel to the saber without going into the saber's body. I suspect you could possibly have it glued, screwed or otherwise secured to the black band section. You might even be able to find the parts to make a plunger and bezel at a hardware store. Not sure though. I never tried that.


    Corbin

  10. #10

    Default

    Yes, I would be interested in the option of a custom machined part as well.

    I don't really think I can even progress on this any further until I have pieces in my hands, and can proceed with assembly to see how it will all work out.

    And the momentary switch is what I am planning on using.

    Toil awhile ... endure awhile ... believe always ... and never turn back.

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