batteries for smaller applications?

[xwingband]

True two CR123's would make one 18650 in size. That's 7.2V @ 900mAh... two 14500's are also that voltage and amperage at a 2AA size.

Nothing wrong, but I guess my point is they are a limited set of scenarios where that would be the best option. Like a V with hardly any room, but unless it was a Yoda length and you want lots of goodies you could probably work something else out.

[arcana]

Well a couple of sabers I'm working on converting have very little space. I'm sure I could fix something AA sized but AA sized with battery holder is another story. I'll have to get some of the battery holders and see what I can cram in there. Thanks for the responses!

[Novastar]

If you can't fit a battery holder (and believe me, I know that feeling), you should simply solder your batteries in place. Best if they are rechargeable, but hey, whatever gets it done for the design.

I stick with Li-Ions for good reason, and those reasons can be seen on my Li-Ion thread:

http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/fo...pic.php?t=2519

As far as I'm concerned, Li-Ions make the most sense in almost every Lux saber at this point, since the forward voltage of most Lux LEDs so closely match the 3.6/3.7 battery setup for a single cell. I don't know any other batteries that provide that voltage for the space used. This is basically about energy density.

Or you could go with lead acid, hahahah

[arcana]

If you can't fit a battery holder (and believe me, I know that feeling), you should simply solder your batteries in place. Best if they are rechargeable, but hey, whatever gets it done for the design.

I stick with Li-Ions for good reason, and those reasons can be seen on my Li-Ion thread:

http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/fo...pic.php?t=2519

As far as I'm concerned, Li-Ions make the most sense in almost every Lux saber at this point, since the forward voltage of most Lux LEDs so closely match the 3.6/3.7 battery setup for a single cell. I don't know any other batteries that provide that voltage for the space used. This is basically about energy density.

Or you could go with lead acid, hahahah

hah lead acid. That would be kinda heavy I'm thinking. As for the li-ion thread, that's awesome. Thanks for the link.

Is a current limiting resister even necessary on a 3.6 li-ion setup? Since the fV voltage on some K2s is like 3.6 as well? Better safe than sorry though I guess.

[arcana]

Can one of you tell me what the voltage requirements are for the corbin's board sold here? Is it the same as the fV of whatever LED you are driving?

[neophyl]

Generally for most of the drivers (corbins, pucks, konlux, etc) its around 1v higher than the leds vf. Can be a bit less but if you work on that as a minimum its a good general rule.

The good things about the drivers is any 'extra' voltage means the current requirements drop so they are loads more efficient and dont waste power.

[arcana]

Hmmm so using a single li-ion 3.7 wouldn't work well on this board if the fV on the LED I wanted to use was 3.6?

[xwingband]

Not really. It will light for sure, but you probably aren't getting the most out of it. If you are driving it though you can go for a higher voltage and be cool.

[Novastar]

In my experience--you can barely tell a visual difference between saber X at 1000ma and a "copy" of saber X at (let's say) 800ma or the like.

Even my Plecter sabers (which have the Ultrablade/film stuff) are not all THAT much brighter than my "resistor-driven" sabers of comparable LED color. This is not to say that they aren't way better, but only to say the same old thing that I've been saying before regarding sabers, which is that there are about a dozen factors that can increase/decrease the perceived brightness... and also that things like a 20% change (brighter or dimmer) via lumens... is pretty insignificant.

I wouldn't say this unless I wasn't visually witnessing it all the time in the 14+ LED sabers that I have, all of which are driven in all sorts of different ways with all sorts of different blade films, blade lengths, depth into the emitters, LED colors, battery setups and all that yackety yack.