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Thread: Dealing with stuck or difficult MHS threads

  1. #1

    Default Dealing with stuck or difficult MHS threads

    Hi all

    It has come to my attention that a few people have had issues with MHS threads either not screwing together well or not being able to unscrew them once together. I would like to take this opportunity to give some suggestions to keep this from happening and what to do if it DOES happen.
    First off, before screwing the parts together, look at them and make sure they don't have any dirt, grime or particles on them. If they do, use an old toothbrush and clean them off. If you nicked the threads, that can often create a "sticky" spot that will hinder assembly. If you encounter this, CAREFULLY attempt to smooth out the nick with a small file. Utmost care should be taken if you are going to attempt this.
    Once the threads are clean and nick free, I recommend applying a LIGHT coat of oil to the threads. WD-40 works OK too, just don't over-do it. I often spray the WD-40 onto a separate toothbrush and then use that to swirl around the threads before assembly. Don't use a Q-tip because if there are any rough spots at all, they tend to grab the cotton and pick up "lint", though this is a good way to check for nicks. Again, go lightly with the oil. Otherwise, you'll have a mess to clean up.

    As for the pieces that are already stuck together, DO NOT FORCE THEM.

    Don't use pliers and mar up the pieces. No vices. No hammers. try this first: Put a little cutting oil or WD-40 in the gap between the pieces. Let is set for a while. For really stubborn pieces, saturate the threads and let it sit overnight. Any attempt to force the pieces will likely cause more damage to the threads and make it even harder to unscrew.

    Another method is to place the pieces in the freezer overnight. The cold causes the parts to shrink a little and might allow for a bit more "wiggle room". This is especially true if you hold the "female" section in your hand up near the threads, since the heat from your hand will allow that area to warm up a little and expand while keeping the inner male section cold and therefore smaller.

    Once difficult threads are apart, follow the above directions to clean them up and look for nicks. Using the Q-tip, like I mentioned earlier is a good way to find nicks that you can't see as easilly.

    If all this fails, please contact us.


  2. #2


    I can't think of anything else that would help.

    Any intelligent fool can make things bigger and more complex. - Albert Einstein

    Reaganomics not Obamanomics

  3. #3


    I had this problem with my double ended hilt connector- it would not come out for love or money. What I did was buy two of those cheap rubber jar openers. I would wrap one around the saber hilt and hold, then wrap the other end around the stuck piece and twist. Sure enough, it worked- the jar openers provided enough extra grip to untwist the pieces without slipping, and being made of soft rubber, they don't damage the saber parts at all.

    For anyone looking, they can be found in the housewares section of any department store, and they look like a square of textured white rubber or silicon.

  4. #4


    I've a couple of suggestions to add to the list:
    1. While general-purpose oil is a good start for keeping things from binding, there's a more task-specific option, known as "anti-seize compound". (I learned about it from a friend who's a serious bike nerd: you use it for attaching pedals and other components that need to be tightened using considerable torque, for safety, yet which you'd like the option of unscrewing someday.)

      Googling for "anti-seize" should turn up a few options.
    2. I've noticed that some MHS parts have smoother threads than others. A #7 LED blade holder that bound with an MHS sink tube suffered particularly rough threads.

      Dremel makes "abrasive buffs" of varying grits, which can be used with both regular mandrels and the new EZ Lock system. I've found them terrific for gentle deburring of metals that doesn't bite too deeply. Making an orbit or two of the threads, with the Dremel's axis of rotation parallel to the long axis of the saber body, did wonders for smoothing out the thread edges without loosening up the overall fit.

      (Tim is probably starting to hyperventilate just reading this. I didn't recommend it. I didn't even say it. And for heaven's sake, wear eye protection if you decide to try this.)
    3. If all else fails, you can't get your parts unstuck, and you've resolved to seek catharsis in violence -- you ambitious Sith Apprentice, you -- head down to your local hardware store and grab a "strap wrench". Better yet, grab two. These will let you apply enough leverage to unstick most parts. Of course, they may do so by destroying their' threads completely, but hey. Buy the ticket, take the ride. Once down the dark path you turn...

  5. #5
    Owner of the Custom Saber shop Strydur's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2005


    Anti-seize was not mentioned because it is not as common as household or motor oil. Plus the stuff I have used when doing brakes etc can make a silvery mess pretty easily while vegetable oil or something clear wont. I am sure there are some non messy forms of anti-seize for sale though.

    Please..DO NOT try and force things apart until AFTER letting some oil, wd40, etc.. soak into the threads.
    The Custom Saber Shop

  6. #6


    There's always the classic cherry bomb or m80 fire cracker to unstick something. LOL
    Dark Siders beware my golden blades.

    Gold 2 standing by.

  7. #7


    Well I didn't want to take any chances so I used the copper antiseize from permatex, plus I cleaned the threads first with a small brass brush and so far no problems.
    " I am a Jedi like my Father before Me"

  8. #8


    Just thought I would chime in here....

    Had a similar problem: Emitter to Hilt....very crunchy / sticky. Would not even consistently screw down all the way....and would lock up.

    Bought a tube of Permatex Anti-Seize from Ace Hardware. Applied a VERY small amount to threads via toothbrush.

    Wiped away any excess.

    No more problems. Works like it should.

    A simple fix to a most vexing problem!
    May the Schwartz be with you...

  9. #9
    Council Member
    Jedi Council Member
    xwingband's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    The training simulators, duh!


    Quote Originally Posted by Kamurah
    via toothbrush.
    This! I always try that. Use a sacrificial toothbrush though... a greasy toothbrush wouldn't be good for them teeth.
    RED LEADER Standing by!

  10. #10


    Quote Originally Posted by xwingband
    Quote Originally Posted by Kamurah
    via toothbrush.
    This! I always try that. Use a sacrificial toothbrush though... a greasy toothbrush wouldn't be good for them teeth.

    Ain't it the
    May the Schwartz be with you...


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