Question about Lux V setup

[Harga Moroc]

Can anyone offer me any advice regarding the Lux V. I have a 3watt luxeon saber and i have been happy but then i saw a luxeon V saber and i was totally blown away by the brightness and i decided i want that set up in my next saber.
What parts will i need for a Luxeon V setup? ie driver board? lens? where do i get all the bits i need? what is the best recommendation from you, the experts?

Much thanks for any info guys..

Harga Moroc

[xwingband]

You can buy the "kit" in the store and that is all you really "need". Anything else is just extra.

[djbordie]

on that note, i did my first MSH with 5w green, and MAN it looks great!
when i get my utrlasound, will it look way better being driven properly?

[xwingband]

The kit does drive it "properly"... just not as efficiently. You may notice a slight increase but nothing dramatic. The major difference is it will run a constant brightness through the batteries life.

[djbordie]

ahhh very interesting.

[Harga Moroc]

I think i would prefer a proper driver board rather than the cheap ass resistor type idea. The whole reason for wanting to go 5watt Luveon V in the first place is because its a much brighter and i would rather have maximum efficiency and eveness throughout the batteries life.
Can anyone tell me where to get a driver board for the luxeon V.
Thanks for the info guys, big help..

Harg Moroc

[Hasid Lafre]

The resistor does the same thing that a driver board will do except a driver board has the blade effects.

resistor driven sabers have been in use as long as they started making lux sabers.

[pockets]

The resistor does the same thing that a driver board will do except a driver board has the blade effects.

resistor driven sabers have been in use as long as they started making lux sabers.

no a resistor does not do the same, the resistor keeps the current and voltage from going over a certain point with a certain battery set up.

a driver will supply a constant current(700ma for luxV) regardless of the battery set up as long as the voltage is high enough. and will maintain that current even after the batteries have started towards the crapper until it cant maintain any longer and then the LED dims.

[Novastar]

Pockets is correct... a resistor is not at all the same as when using a driver. Especially in the case of the Plecter board or Corbin's board.

I can't speak for a "simple" buck/puck style driver, since I've not really used them much. Although there is one in a BOP II blaster I think.

[Harga Moroc]

Ok.. i have been researching a little and from what you guys tel me and what i have found out is a driver board is the go.
If i can get an aftermarket board such as plecters or corbins or even ultra i will go that way. meantime I will try out a 'puck' and see what that does.. at this time sound isnt my greatest concern, so ill work on getting the Lux V going first off.
My 3 watt has a mr sound board and it all works well so i will go a similar path with my Lux V when i can get my hands on a board with sound that can drive the Lux V at its best potential.
I gather i can use the same lens setup as in my 3watt but i was curious what the difference if any is between a fraen narrow beam lens and the collimator?

thanks for the info guys, i appreciate it..

Harga Moroc