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Thread: My ongoing mhs project.

  1. #1

    Default My ongoing mhs project.

    So Ive had an mhs saber for a while now.




    Pritty basic. well almost all the basic parts.

    But i went with this design cause in the tcss store page theres a pic of different changing sabers well theres one that has an overlay on it I was gonna do that but changed my mind, when I seen this I knew I had to get a lighttech crown emitter.



    But sence lightech isent alive on the otherside of the site I have to hold off for a while till I can have one custome made for me.

    So I had my bro do this for me at his work.



    It was the style 5 pommel I had my bro shave it down on the lath and had a 05 vader speaker grill altered and shoved in there.

    It still retains some of the rounded ness but Iam gonna sand on it more and make it more pronounced.

    Now all its got is a 3W cyan bin 2, with a 33" tcss blade ran on an 05 vader sound board.

    I have ordered some parts and sadly I wasent abel to get the LT emitter but thats all I am missing.

    My 7" plain style 1 hilt section is being lathed on for some light grooving. hopefully its finished today so I can put this togeather cause hopefully the parts will come in today. Just need to find out when my extra shock sensor is susposed to get here.

    Iam gonna be running the 3w cyan for now till tim can get the k2 cyans in, Iam gonna go from 80 lumens to 130 lumens. ;D

    Iam gonna use the mr board for sound only and its gonna have an accent led driven off of with the proper resistor so I can plug it with almost 5 watts.

    Iam gonna be using corbins latching driver thanks to Xwing for that and the altering he did to it already. He soldered leads to it and shafed it down to fit the mhs. Again Thanks Xwing.

    I Got me a rotory DPDT switch to make this possable.

    Now I am setting this up for rechargable so in a recharge port goes.

    Iam flipping my 7" hilt section around so the origional button hole is now for the recharge port and allows me to have a resinance chamber of sort for my speaker.

    I went with the 4.8V AA rechargable battery pack, 2.1MM plug and jack. the pluc has the correct connector on it so its a plug and play for my nimh battery recharger.

    Now sence Iam doing this setup I need another clash sensor, and thanks to corbin that will be possable to run this properly.

    So iam gonna have to drill a couple holes in my ribbed section for the switch and hopefully it will fit or iam gonna have to reses the hole which I dont really want to do at this time. cause with just a hand drill thats gonna be tough.

    So Thats about it for the build up of it with the purchased parts. I have purchased a sinktube a longtime ago that I can now make use of to make a style-ish activation plate of sorts.

    Iamnot sure what iam gonna do for say the looks like painting or whatever I dont know yet.

    But I am gonna do some damage to it to make it look like it fell of a cliff of sorts and some weathering that I think will work. Not the kind of it being aged but in use but like its seen alot of battles and Iam gonna use alot of 0000 gritt steel wool on it in places.It will change the aluminum look to that of gun metal gray.

    Iam gonna use it in places then even it out to look like it aged in thoes places that dont get used much.

    Then Iam gonna smoth out places where hand location would of been for its many battles.

    I will then be rewrighting my story I made. Its not like a short story its more of a long story from hell, almost book.

    It will tail how my charater came about and how he found his first lightsaber that turned out to his own from a previous life time.

    Enjoy and expect pics to b up in a couple days.

    Ok so my picture taking skills arnt the greatest of this camera isent the greatest.

    So here it goes.




    It looked better on the camera so just bear with me here. at least you can see that theres grooving into it. the 2 on the beginning and ends are wider but on one side its like it wasent cut deep enought but I dont know how that turned up.

    But at closer feel they all are like that. kinda like it had a wobbel into it but thats ok. Not to big a fan on perfection when it comes to something of this...size.

    Becides I may put a grip plate there I dont know.

    Iam not gonna clean it up at all after I start constructing this thing so if theres a mistake like the drill bit walks then thats gonna stay there.

    But on to do some test fitting of board placements.
    Any intelligent fool can make things bigger and more complex. - Albert Einstein

    Reaganomics not Obamanomics


  2. #2

    Default

    Wow, that looks just like Ryma Mara's saber.... :P

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  3. #3

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    Well so far all ive done is catalog everything and assembled part of my blade. I went with the thinwalled 1" blade.

    ITs about 37" long or so with the new shouldered tips for thick walled blades.

    Now whats really coll is that I got the 3/4" aluminum disk on the tip and theres space between the tips shoulder and the blade so the light passes around it and lights the pit up pritty darn good.

    Should of took pics but forgot.

    But I have to figure out how to get corbins film in there so tomorrow iam gonna get a 1/4" or smaller dowel rod and put it in there.

    I got some drilling to do for my switch hole and my accent led which is suprizingly smaller than I thought it would be so who knows I may do somehting about it later on like another one.

    My brother is gonna make a disk for my recharge port to set into the place of my speaker grill.

    My activation plate is gonna have speaker holes under it and maybe a slot or 3 in the plate so sound can come out there but for the most part iam tired of sound comming out the bottem of my hilt only.

    So Maybe in a week I will have some progress going cause its gonna be a pain to put togeather cause corbins board is tight in there.
    Any intelligent fool can make things bigger and more complex. - Albert Einstein

    Reaganomics not Obamanomics


  4. #4

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    Ok heres my blade, I heard that corbins film inside ultras gives the coring effect and the even ness of ultras Now iam wondering if I should take someof ultras out?

    My brother thinks it would be better on the outside of ultras film.

    Up close flash on then off.




    Blade with flash on then off.




    The room is semi dark but not dark I mean theres day light comming it. theres alot of overcast outside, but its comfertable in the house to not have a light on.

    So, The saber is my brothers 3W Royal blue on mr sound board.

    I think it looks good. Iam just wondering what I should to put corbins film on the outside of ultras with some of ultras cut down or the way it is but with ultras cut down still?

    I figured that this was the way to go sence I am using corbins driver so I will get the correct extend retract look that corbins driver does with his film.
    Any intelligent fool can make things bigger and more complex. - Albert Einstein

    Reaganomics not Obamanomics


  5. #5
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    Default

    I would put corbin's on the outside and less of Ultra's. Another option would be a quad wrap to help with evenness... I want to try that next blade I make.
    RED LEADER Standing by!

  6. #6

    Default

    Well I cut off about 4 feet of ultras and used that. then the last couple wraps I stuck corbins double wrap in to help roll it up cause it is a pain in the but to roll up.

    I got almost all the dog hair off theres about 4 or 5 then I got to get some duster to clean the dust off cause Iam sure some got on it.

    I dont have my hilt or one togeather for that matter but I stick a mini bulb flashlight at the end and it looked pritty good I can see corbins better and ultras fil still kinda does its thing. couldent tell much cause the flashlight sucks.

    But I think that will work 4 foot of ultras to a double of corbins so I would say with a quad wrap maybe 2.5-3 foot of ultras or so.

    But I need to get the dust off of it but I dont know of any clean air enviroment I can do this in.

    Hell I was luckey to get what hair off I could and my house theres no animals just me and my dusty basement.

    But will get pics of it up tomorrow if I remember.
    Any intelligent fool can make things bigger and more complex. - Albert Einstein

    Reaganomics not Obamanomics


  7. #7

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    So yeah I went to start working on the switch and led holes today and that dident work out so great.

    So what Iam gonna do is just take a section of my ribbed section out. Basicly Iam gonna put a small square out and mount the leds to the plate instead. then I just have to worry about drilling the switch hole out more and countersinking that but I need a drill press and thats not an easy thing to find.
    Any intelligent fool can make things bigger and more complex. - Albert Einstein

    Reaganomics not Obamanomics


  8. #8

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    Well with the help of my brother theres a good sized hole now fo rmy accent led and a quick connector.

    So Iam gonna mount the led to the plate and it will be easyer to then get the switch in place. the switch hole is about half way done.

    Then all I got to do is counter sink the hole a bit and figure out a way to keep the switch from turning on itself as it was ment for a panel mount so I had to shave some of the switches sides off and Iam gonna take some more plastic off to get just a bit more threads to poke thru.

    Did a bit of messing around and the tip to my blade popped off so I need to get a tip for the thin walled blades.

    So now I know that idea dident work so Iam gonna wait till the tip on my thick walled blade pops and replace it with that one.

    So more derailment is afoot, I had my brother hot glue the contacts on the driver so none of the wires come off and thanks X for putting the wires on the driver for me as Iam sure me or my brother would of messed something up.

    So tomorrow Iam gonna try to get some pics of the blade and the hilt progress while Bro is helping a friend of mine with his hilt.

    Then I got to sand the chrome off the sinktube(god I dont want to do that), So yeah lots of fun fun fun stuff.
    Any intelligent fool can make things bigger and more complex. - Albert Einstein

    Reaganomics not Obamanomics


  9. #9

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    Ok So here is my blade with about 4 foot of ultras films and a corbin double wrap in a thinwalled blade.

    The tim is tapted on there cause I am gonna need to get a thin walled blade tip.

    Mine came off after just a light tap.

    So hers the blade with the flash on then off.




    The cutting work on the hilt for the led and switch.


    Still need to countersink the hole for the switch but yeah thats a good sized hole for the led but I wanted to have enought room for the quick disconnects cause eventually 2 leds are gonna go there so in the mean time Iam gonna use a yellow 5MM led.

    So sometime I need to start sanding the chrome off the sink tube. ugg

    The room was barly lit Much like the same conditions in the previous pics.
    Any intelligent fool can make things bigger and more complex. - Albert Einstein

    Reaganomics not Obamanomics


  10. #10
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    Default

    The duel wrap blade looks good. I think I want to try that on a future blade.

    Your Dremel skills on the switch hole leave a little to be desired, though.

    I usually save my smaller, worn cut off disks for making small square holes like that. Though I haven't tried making a square hole in something like an MHS hilt, just sink tubes and PVC, so I'm sure it's more difficult to do.
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