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Thread: Luxeon Rebel discussion

  1. #11

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    No, I don't think it could. It's possible if was making good contact with the blade holding section then it might, but I don't know if you can get three Rebels on pcb on that heatsink. I took a look at putting three Rebels in the tri-lux and it won't work the way it currently is designed. With a small modification to the lense holder and a little dremel action to the pcb they would fit.

    I forgot. To go with a single driver, you'd need a large voltage power pack. Three Rebels in series would require 9.6V at 700 mA (9.9V at a full amp). Corbin's driver won't handle a 3 Li-ion setup as we found out on the KP. I am not sure what the Ultra board or Plecter board could do. If you wanted to go with a Corbin driver, you would have to go Ni-MH and shoot for a 9 cell pack for 10.8V. You will probably have a very short life at full brightness as the cells drained. I would think three seperate cells (one for each LED) would be better. But this would have to be direct drive. I'm sure in time, someone will develop a driver to handle this.

  2. #12

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    I realize this is a bit outside the scope of the 'DIY' attitude preferred by this forum but in theory with the tiny physical footprint of the rebel LEDs itself and their exceptional efficiency if one were able to get a cluster of 7 rebels mounted in a ring similar in size to a luxeon star in a patern with a white one in the center surrounded by 6 coloured ones and use a dual tube blade [thanks Xwingband for explaining that when I brought this idea up on 'another forum'] could that perhaps make a 'daylight bright' movie-like saber with a bright white core lit by the full power of the central white Rebel surrounded by the coloured 'aura' of the six surrounding ones?

    Which perhaps could be red-green-blue-red-green-blue around white for colour changing? Or perhaps red-green-blue-amber-cyan-royalblue around white for even more subtle colour mixes??

    I realize this kind of 'cluster' would probably have to be factory-made custom mount with custom optics not something DIY but at least in theory would it be possible?

    For the last couple months i've been thinking "what a shame that saber-fans are probably too small of a market niche for Luxeon to make such a saber-oriented rebel cluster-ring for us to buy..."

    But then I heard that MR has lost the SW license and it occured to me...

    Presumably somebody else will get the SW license eventually?

    And since they wont have MR's patents they probably will have to make light-up saber replicas some other way than MR-style LED strings?

    Now maybe you and I couldnt get Phillips Luxeon to make a saber-use-specific custom rebel-ring/cluster solution for DIY use...and maybe even Strydur and Ultra and Plecter and RY and Yoda and any and all the other custom sabersmiths together wouldnt represent enough sales for them to bother making such a cluster?...but what about whoever gets the saber-license that MR has let lapse?

    I would guess a 'mass production' saber-maker like MR must buy LEDs by the 100,000s???

    Maybe Luxeon would make such a cluster for them?

    Sooooo maybe if we could only convince whoever gets the license to go in such a direction we could get super-bright white-cored movie-like sabers using such a cluster...and if that 'proved the market' maybe then Luxeon would market them to us to use to build our own sabers too?

    Yeah hopelessly optimistic probably...but hey I can dream cant I???

    Ok y'all can tell me it's a dumb idea now...

    Oh and yeah i realize that kind of 'super-saber-rebel-cluster' would need custom led drivers/soundboards and other solutions as well but presumably anyone building sabers on a MR scale could handle those requirements too?

  3. #13
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    Thanks on the heatsink info Ace... I figured as much, but never hurts to double-check/double confirm...

    Quote Originally Posted by acerocket
    To go with a single driver, you'd need a large voltage power pack. Three Rebels in series would require 9.6V at 700 mA (9.9V at a full amp). Corbin's driver won't handle a 3 Li-ion setup as we found out on the KP. I am not sure what the Ultra board or Plecter board could do. If you wanted to go with a Corbin driver, you would have to go Ni-MH and shoot for a 9 cell pack for 10.8V. You will probably have a very short life at full brightness as the cells drained. I would think three seperate cells (one for each LED) would be better. But this would have to be direct drive. I'm sure in time, someone will develop a driver to handle this.
    Ace... Erv's board (v2.x) can handle 11v and Alex's can handle 12v. It is possible. Albeit would need to be tested.

    But I agree that powering them individually would probably be more efficient. Plus, it would allow for the RGB setup if you so chose... AND you could "tone it down" during times you didn't feel like showing the full brightness.
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  4. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Onli-Won Kanomi
    I realize this is a bit outside the scope of the 'DIY' attitude preferred by this forum but in theory with the tiny physical footprint of the rebel LEDs itself and their exceptional efficiency if one were able to get a cluster of 7 rebels mounted in a ring similar in size to a luxeon star in a pattern with a white one in the center surrounded by 6 coloured ones and use a dual tube blade [thanks Xwingband for explaining that when I brought this idea up on 'another forum'] could that perhaps make a 'daylight bright' movie-like saber with a bright white core lit by the full power of the central white Rebel surrounded by the coloured 'aura' of the six surrounding ones?
    1 Rebel requires about 3.15v... sometimes less, but let's say 3.15v

    7 x 3.15 = 22v


    If you screw something up... you might kill yourself with all that voltage. Maybe. Something could catch fire or explode...

    But most importantly, that would be an EXTRAORDINARY amount of batteries.

    Even "morely mostly" importantly (heheh)... would be the heatsinking, which would literally be an inferno in there. Beelzebub would be at home, and in the spirit of the new F4 movie... uh... flame on!

    So... major problems = A THRONG OF HEAT... A LEGION OF BATTERIES.

    Finally, if you could somehow avoid the above issues, you'd probably ALSO need to use about 4 drivers to distribute the battery power... and... zounds that would be a wiring mess.

    Not to mention the optics. Ouch. OUCH!!!!

    It would still be pretty cool. Or... pretty hot. Looking. Visually. Whatever.
    ~~ GREYTALE NOVASTAR (Writer, Director, Choreographer, Sound Designer, Actor, Saber Designer, Vocal Artist)
    ~~ Balance of Power, EP I: "Into The Lion's Den"
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    ~~ The Crystal Focus Sound CD Compendiums... are HERE! ~~
    ~~ Nova & Caine's Staged Combat System... comin' SOON!
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  5. #15
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    Optic are still going to be a pain for clustering all these LEDs.

    You wouldn't need 22V necessarily. You could parallel them to a degree. If you want to max them though they;ll still be battery hogs.

    Single LEDs are what I'm looking for now. For "daylight bright"... bah, I can go out at twilight and my blades are fine.
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  6. #16

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    What would you consider twilight hours?
    Any intelligent fool can make things bigger and more complex. - Albert Einstein

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  7. #17
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    Well, it changes with the seasons and I wasn't looking at a clock when I last went out...

    About 10-15 degrees above the ground. Just enough for the sun to hit the treeline. I have no problem seeing my blades outside then.

    Sure during noon time the blades get killed, but I don't even want to be outside then much less trying to twirl a saber.
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  8. #18

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    Yeah Iam not much of a fan of daylight.

    Makes everything to bright and blinding. winter sucks cause the sun glayers off the snow.

    feels like Iam putting a magnyfying glass to my eye and looking at the sun.
    Any intelligent fool can make things bigger and more complex. - Albert Einstein

    Reaganomics not Obamanomics


  9. #19

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    Hay ace check this out.

    http://www.ledsmagazine.com/press/15056

    They look like we can use them for a single led application.

    http://www.polymer-optics.co.uk/prod...%20custom.html

    It looks like in the pdf they got for the led optics they got something that looks like a refracter optics for 3 of them.

    Heres the pdf.

    http://www.polymer-optics.co.uk/Luxe...el%20Range.pdf They got optics that filter color so a red green blade would be intresting to have and varyious other colors.

    I think that is if they do a rgb setup but I thought I read something to where the optics filter color.
    Any intelligent fool can make things bigger and more complex. - Albert Einstein

    Reaganomics not Obamanomics


  10. #20

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    Yeah, those single optics are the ones I use in the tri-lux (without the holder). The optic is the same for the Lux I, Lux III, K2 and Rebel but the holder is different depending on the LED and mounting application. The triple unit they sell is larger than the tri-lux setup. I can get three optics without holders inside a 1.22" diameter where the triple optic would need about 1.41" of diamter.

    The optics do not filter color. The RGB works by giving different current (brightness) to each seperate LED to achieve the desired color. What they offer is caps that snap on to the top of the optic to help diffuse the beam to a different shape.

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