I need to be spoonfed on how to build a bright saber

[Darth_Banyon]

Hey all, i'm new here but am fairly excited to start building some truely great sabers. i am not really sure what i need. I want to get the parts to make a modular hilt (MHS) and know pretty much what i want there. i need help with the internal workings. my friend broke the blade on his MRFX Luke ANH saber and gave me the internal parts, he kept the rest as a display piece i currently have in my posession ...

1 - Complete circuit board with sound, clash sensor and switch
2 - Battery Pack
3 - Broken EL Blade ( i include this because it has the wiring harness attached

http://www.myspace.com/rabblerouser241

what i want is to make a super bright saber with a nice core effect in the blade can someone please tell me what parts i need to make the whole thing work and give me basic directions to put it together. i would like to buy everything i need from TCSS as soon as i know what i'll need
please respond or private message me or you can drop me an email at
rable_rouser241@yahoo.com

[Darth_Banyon]

sorry i forgot thi pic of the circuitry

[Lord Maul]

try reading the thread index and FAQ

all your questions will be answered

[Jedi-Loreen]

If it was truly an EL saber, and that looks like an inverter in the pic, then you can't use that board to drive the LED. The wires going to the blade are putting out high frequency AC, not the DC needed to drive the LED.

You could only use it for sound, and will have to drive the LED directly with a resistor or use another driver or buck puck.

[Darth_Banyon]

if i have a saber with a ribbed extension and a hilt section will there be room to run the standard bat pack in the ribbed section to run the blade and the standard MR sound/bat pack in the lower hilt portion to run the sound board? and can i tie the two switches in together somewhere in the middle?

[Hasid Lafre]

You could add the 3W driver to it.



Can someone conferm if this same setup will work with his board?

Basicly a dpdt switch, 4.8V rechargables or the equlavent with alkalines.

prity much the 7" sections is gonna be for battey pack and boards alone. a new location for the switch might be needed depending on what else you want to add like a recharge port.

[Darth_Banyon]

thats great, just the knda help i needed. however the speaker i was intending to use is the one built into the bat pack that came with the MR FX ANH saber. would that be doable? also, is it possible to run a lux5 on this config?

[Hasid Lafre]

the mr speaker if fine to use but with your saber design you posted in another topic the driver wont fit in a 1.25" sinktube it needs the sides sanded down just to fit in the non ribbed ect extentions. Just the standard sized mhs section. the driver can use a 5W but needs 7.2V at a minamum to run .

[Novastar]

For the record, an MR speaker CAN be removed from a batt pack.

I never recommend taking them from the 3AA packs, but I *always* do from the 6AA packs.

Two reasons: first, the 6AA packs still runs at 4.5 volts, so it's a waste of space (but yes, it nearly doubles the run time)... second, the speaker is a lot more accessible to get free from the 6batt pack over the 3batt pack one.

[neophyl]

If that picture is of the circuitry you have its not EL. Its a normal Led strip blade. As such you could drive a 3w from it.

The electronics pictured consist of Main pcb, motion and clash sensors in a plastic housing and battery pack connector