n00b questions: Slide-overs

[nocturne]

I'm looking at making my first saber, but I'm impatient and want to run before I walk, namely I want something that has more to it that the basic MHS sections.
(I want it to look mean and pretty at the same time)

I don't know what the technical term you guys use for them is, but I'm on about the the black plastic grip looking bits and the shiney chrome looking bits that a lot of you guys seem have slid over the basic hilt to give it layer, depth and aesthetic good looks.
Are they custom made, or store available parts that just happen to fit over the MHS hilt sections?

If they're store bought, can they be bought in the UK (in fact are any of you guys in the UK?)

If they're just pieces of tube, what do you guys use to cut out the sections you don't want so you get the beautiful cutouts and rolling curves in your hilts?
Would I do OK with a dremmel and marker pen or are you guys more high-tech than that?

Thanks

[xwingband]

For tubes, the "sinktube" sold in the store is designed to slide over the MHS. You'll do fine with a dremel and marker... that's what we use.

Funny you mention the UK because someone just mentioned a different tubing he used on his hilt. Look for it... it was really recently.

[nocturne]

Cool, many thanks

[neophyl]

The normal US sinktubes arent available over here in the UK but various other tube sections are. I dont think any of them are as snug a fit though. In some cases that can be an advantage.

Things like the rubber O rings can be bought here. A good garage or B&Q should stock them. If you want a thumbscrew to secure the blade then order them from the shop at the same time as your mhs parts as Ive still to find a UK supplier of them. Last lot I bought was from Corbin before he joined up with tcss.

[Hasid Lafre]

From JediRanger

When I plan and design my overlays, I first take a piece of paper, wrap it around the material I'll but cutting, and tape it. Then, I remove the paper, fold it flat (lengthwise), and then begin drawing. I'll usually have a rough plan sketched out before this.

Trim the paper to length, and draw away.

Anyway, I draw just on one 1/2, and then I slide the paper back on to have a rough look. Some lines usually need to be adjusted, one way or another.

When you have a design you like, cut it out. I use scissors and a knife.

Then, slide the template back onto the metal shell, and trace with a sharpie. Be careful, as sharpies are supposedly permament, but it can actually be rubbed of with some general handling.

Once the layout is finished, carefully remove the template (to save as reference for later).

Now, the messy part. Dig out the all mighty Dremel, and go to work. Depending on the lines designed in, you may prefer to drill corner pilot holes with a drill first, for sharp curves. I usually use a regular cutting disc. To expand the tighter corners, I also use a Tungsten Carbide Cutting bit (Dremel bit #9901).
<http://www.dremel.com/en-us/attachments-and-accessories/attachment-accessory-detail.htm?H=188537&G=66240&I=66303>

Make sure you have a firm grip on the dremel, as it is really easy for it to skip, especially on fine work.

When you are finished, use at least 2 sand paper sheets, as Loreen stated above, for finished the edges.

Well, I think that about covers what I wanted to say, to help you out.

Good luck.

EDIT IN: One thing I forgot to mention. When using the regular brass (chrome or plain) sink pipes for overlays, keep in mind that the pipe is actually under pressure, and will spring open, if too much material is removed around the circumferance. It wants to flatten out. So, don't try to get cutouts too long and fancy, or it won't sit flush against the base hilt.

You'll see what I mean, if you cut a small ring of pipe off one end, and then cut through the ring; it'll spring open.

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You should be just fine using what u have. But if you want to make extra sure everything will be ok you can use the 4AAA battery holder and solder a wire in place of one of the batteries. This way your skipping over that battery slot and just using 3AAA batteries. Im using this method on my newest saber, and retrofitting an old one the same way. Really the LEDs can handle 4AAA's but soldering that wire will guarantee that u dont overdrive the LED, thereby saving u some wear and tear.

Hope this helped,
SB

[scott5050]

I used 40mm Rothley handrail tubing - you can get this in the UK at B&Q warehouses (the big ones). It's about £20 but that's for a couple of meters and it comes in nickel or chrome.

You will need some good diamond cutting discs for your dremel though because it's tough! Some diamond burrs are useful as well.

It's hard work shaping it but the result is much stronger and heavier than sinkpipe.

I found a good source for o-rings as well - http://www.altecweb.com/home.asp?cat=Subcategory8320 - £3.60 for a pack of 50

[nocturne]

ah! now we're talking, thanks.

[Barmic Rin]

Nocturne, where abouts in UK?
I can help abit south London area. Scotty is right about B&Q, though if you don't need that length, try the replacement table legs section.
I used one to give my 1st EL saber a 'step' effect over my chromed copper piping (also, the iD was just wide enough to squeeze my Lightech soundbox in).

If not, try smaller hardware stores with plumbing sections like Harris & Bailey, Meta-woods etc.
Most of them will have off-cuts they'll let you have for cheap.

Edit: Sorry, it was Scotty, not Phil.

I can't find a decent thumbscrew supplier either. Found a guy that can make them, but they'd be at least £3 each!!!!
I'd rather give Tim or Erv the cash!

[nocturne]

I'm about 20 miles nearer the coast than Canterbury, which puts me about 35 miles from Calais, and about 70 from London...

£3 for a thumbscrew?!
ouch, yeah.
Strill reading thru posts to associate names with handles (my name's Rob by the way), I'd guess Tim is the TCSS guy, as I've already been told that Erv is French?

Thanks.

[scott5050]

Yep, Tim/Strydur is the TCSS owner