Alternative to blade diffuser

[vadeblade]

Cyambin,
Based on pictures of Tim's blade and the pictures of my blade, I would say the two are equal in brightness. I would not make a claim that my blade is brighter as I have not created a blade using Tim's method. However, from the pictures, my experiment looks Equally bright.

I purchased a mirror variety pack. It had 1/2" - 1" dia.

I also found this while walking around Michaels Arts and Craft Store:
http://www.michaels.com/art/online/d...ductNum=gc0397

the role I saw was 60" by 3 yards for $4.99. It looks more like what Gelu was describing. I will try that out on my next blade.

Lightsaber Warning Label: "CAUTION: Do NOT attempt to sharpen blade."

http://www.geocities.com/projectstm/lightsaber.html

[GeluKhanGharr]

Cyambin, I have not tried Tim's diffuser yet either, but I compared my film method with a plain MR diffuser and I can say without a doubt the film is brighter and more even. I have also tried the iridiscent film and have not seen any advantage over the plain clear film. The iridiscent film I had was really thin and a much bigger pain to install than the clear one, so, although I have a blade with it, I'll be changing it.

Born of Sith, seduced by the light.

[Cyambin]

Alright thanks guys

I am ordering an LED saber kit, complete blade and another PolyC tube very soon. I don't have an MR to compare it to but I will try the iridescent film since there is no advantage so it should be relatively similar. Right?

[Madcow]

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Great work!

I'm new here... Cheers all!

Have any of you tried scuffing the outside of the polycarb tube and then puting no diffuser inside?



"You want to go home and re-think your life"

[GeluKhanGharr]

Hey Madcow, I see you did join. Welcome!
Sand blasting and bead blasting the polycarb blades on the outside has been discussed. The general consensus is that diffusers still look better, but after all it is a matter of personal prefference.

Born of Sith, seduced by the light.

[supertrogdor]

I tried the michaels shrinkwrap, and was less than impressed by the results, tried several different variations of the film. from nearly the entire roll to just a few feet, with and without scratched/abraised surface, and none of it impressed me greatly so my 2 bits reveal there are better options available, but if anyone has input on something i may have done wrong i would be glad to hear it
did you try it vadeblade? if so how did it compare?
I have made a few phone calls in the last hour and found that aside from some puzzled shopkeepers, most floral shops carry the polypropalene celophane and are willing to sell it very cheaply (a quarter to thirty-five cents per foot), ill report any findings on how it compares and post pics of any differences if they prove photoworthy

[supertrogdor]

Tim's diffuser tube arrived yesterday, comparason pictures soon to be posted

[vadeblade]

Hi supertrogdor,
No, sorry. The mylar film from Tap Platics is actually working well for me. I managed to get the LED aligned properly and I am getting an almost uniform light the full length of the blade. There is a barely noticeable dim spot about 8-10 inches from the tip. It shows up more when I take a digital picture, but to the naked eye it is barely there. I showed my blade to a few more people and all I get is jaws dropping and "please make one for me." So I think I will stick with what I have for now.

Cheers,
-V


Lightsaber Warning Label: "CAUTION: Do NOT attempt to sharpen blade."

http://www.geocities.com/projectstm/lightsaber.html

[xwingband]

That's good to know Vadeblade since I have mylar just waiting to be used.[] On that subject I would like to try matte mylar too. It may eliminate the need for sanding it.

I bet you should look into what Corbin does to score his film. He said in TFN that he had some kind of printing machinery that he ran it through that made even scoring.

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www.dewbackwing.com</center>

[vadeblade]

I want to try matte mylar too but the local Tap does not have it in stock at the moment. I was thinking that 6 feet of matte mylar may be too opaque. So my idea was to take only 2 feet of matte roled up to make an inner core and 4-6 feet of clear mylar to make an outer core. This should still result in a silver blade unlit and possibly a coring effect when lit.

-V

Lightsaber Warning Label: "CAUTION: Do NOT attempt to sharpen blade."

http://www.geocities.com/projectstm/lightsaber.html