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Thread: Alternative to blade diffuser

  1. #11

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    about your static clean problem:
    try using a dryer sheet like a Bounce or Downy. it won't keep the static from coming back but it will keep it under control. just wipe it over the clingy area. i have this same problem building miniatures and applying decals and this solution works well for me.

  2. #12

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    Construction Pics!

    Those who see the light at the end of the tunnel, need to stop staring at the sun.

  3. #13
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    <blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by WeirdoTransvestite

    Construction Pics!

    Those who see the light at the end of the tunnel, need to stop staring at the sun.
    <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">


    I don't think there's much to it. I think he just wrapped it around a pole and shoved it in there.[]

    <center>
    www.dewbackwing.com</center>

  4. #14

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    Maybe so, but I am not the only one with a knack for screwing up the simplest things.

    Those who see the light at the end of the tunnel, need to stop staring at the sun.

  5. #15
    Youngling vadeblade's Avatar
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    WeirdoTransvestite,

    There really is nothing to it. I took one 24" x 36" sheet and wiped it with a brillo pad diagonally from bottom to top and then then from top to bottom. I then wiped the sheet down with lint free cloth. Then I blasted the whole thing with PC Duster.

    I just stacked two clear sheets. Then I stacked the scratched up sheet on top of those two. I then rolled up the sheet into a tube. I kept the tube rolled tight with some rubber bands.

    I took a half-ball acrylic piece and glued a flat mirror in the center. I then glued that assembly on one end of the PolyC tube. Once the glue cured I removed the rubber bands from the mylar "tube" and inserted it inside the PolyC.

    Make sure the mylar has a diameter much smaller than the inside diameter of the polyC. Don't let the mylar expand/unroll or it will cling to the polyC wall or you're gonna have a hard time with the rest of the assembly.

    Once the mylar "tube" butts up against the mirror, I release the pressure on the mylar role and it will expand and cling to the polyc wall. Holding the blade Vertical with the dome towards the bottom, I gave the assembly a few good taps on the carpet to seat the mylar completely against the acrylic tip.

    That's it. The clingyness of te mylar keeps it in the blade. The stuff is stickier than cling-wrap.

    Sorry, no assembly pictures.

    -V

    Lightsaber Warning Label: "CAUTION: Do NOT attempt to sharpen blade."

    http://www.geocities.com/projectstm/lightsaber.html

  6. #16

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    The mirror you used in the tip, is it 3/4" diameter so it fits the polyC perfectly? Or is it smaller?

  7. #17

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    I really wasn't sure if you scratched up the entire sheet or not.

    Those who see the light at the end of the tunnel, need to stop staring at the sun.

  8. #18
    Youngling vadeblade's Avatar
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    Cyambin,
    I used a 1/2 inch dia mirror. The reason is the mylar role is actually quite thick. It reduced the inside diameter of my blade to a little over 1/2 inch.

    WeirdoTransvestite,
    I scratched up the whole sheet. Actually, I think it would be even more effective if you turned it over and scratched up the other side too. Or use something finer than a brillo pad.

    This has been a great experiment, but it really is more labor intensive than just having a milkish white diffuser like Tim sells. The plus of this method is that when the Lux is off, it looks like you have a chrome blade on your lightsaber.

    Lightsaber Warning Label: "CAUTION: Do NOT attempt to sharpen blade."

    http://www.geocities.com/projectstm/lightsaber.html

  9. #19

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    I am so trying this then.

    Those who see the light at the end of the tunnel, need to stop staring at the sun.

  10. #20

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    Vadeblade do you honestly mean to tell me that the only plus is the metallic look? Isn't it brighter than the diffuser?

    Also in the LED blade tips thread scaarmor used a 3/4" diameter mirror so it reflected back through the diffuser. He said it worked so well he didn't notice anything at first, the whole blade looked the same. And he scraped windows in those mirrors too.
    I looked in The Art Store and found every mirror I could possibly use in a blade so I got some 3/4" ones. I also got some Iridescent film because of the bell that sounded in my head when my mom pointed it out. I can't find anything about Iridescent film on this forum but I am eager to experiment with it and will post pics once I get an actual saber []

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