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Thread: Clash sensor needs a serious beating

  1. #1

    Default Clash sensor needs a serious beating

    I have my lightsaber all setup with a soundboard from the 2010 Hasbro Yoda toy. Everything works fine and it sounds pretty good. Using a Seoul P4 Green and 4AAA batteries with the premium speaker sold on this site. One thing that seems a lil odd is how hard i need to hit the thing to get the clash sensor to go off. When it is outside of the hilt it works great when i flick on the plastic cylinder i glued the board onto. When it is inside of the hilt it needs to be basically pounded on. I am wondering if the plastic is too tight around the walls of the hilt or maybe if wires are too close to the clash sensor will it maybe cushion it and keep it from working right?

  2. #2
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    Jedi-Loreen's Avatar
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    Where is the board located in your hilt?
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    you must sometimes risk the Dark.
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  3. #3

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    I replaced them clash sensors with the ones from the store and that cured it right up.

  4. #4
    Jedi Padawan jjshumpert's Avatar
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    position of the sensor in your hilt will effect the clash, as well as how much spacing is between the sensor and the outer hilt body. i would first try putting a small spring between your canister and the sensor so it is "floating". if that doesn't bring up your sensitivity you might try attaching the sensor to the inside of the hilt body directly somewhere closer to your blade holder, which would allow it to sense more of the vibration coming off the blade and holder when it is struck against something. may or may not help, just the first thing that came to mind without seeing your setup.

  5. #5

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    the cylinder is about mid section of a 14 inch hilt. I had been having to slap even the hilt pretty hard to get anything out of it. The clash sensor is built onto the board and after lookin at it, it seems the board itself where the sensor solders onto is broken right at the solder points. So the thing is not pickin up sound right and only picks it up when hit at a certain angle and the hilt is tilted in a certain direction. I will just solder a couple of wires further along that circuit and then solder them to the clash sensor and move it up closer to the blade holder.

  6. #6
    Jedi Padawan jjshumpert's Avatar
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    so basically the problem your having is that the clash is only working when the hilt is in such a position so that the sensor is actually making contact with the board on both sides of the component. that would completely explains your problem, glad you got it figured out!

  7. #7

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    I pulled a 2010 Yoda economy board from its saber last week and what do you know? The clash sensor had a broken solder joint (the rear joint)

    I desoldered the sensor, added auxillary clash switch wiring, and resoldered the sensor to the board.

    I wonder if the yoda boards have that issue due to the way the board is mounted in the saber hilt? looks like the front of the clash sensor is pressed DOWN while inside the hilt, stressing the solder joint.

    Wouldn't hurt to keep track of such issues.

    AK-47s and Lightsabers, both so fun to build

  8. #8

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    I wonder what wiring two TCSS clash sensors to the same spot would do? Think it would be oversensitive or do you think it would change at all? You could possibly seat them perpendicular to eachother.

  9. #9
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    It would probably clash constantly, I'd guess.
    In order to see the Light,
    you must sometimes risk the Dark.
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  10. #10

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    Quote Originally Posted by Jedi-Loreen View Post
    It would probably clash constantly, I'd guess.
    I guess there is no way to know until I try it out, right?

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