A couple of ideas to improve our Lightsabers!

[Eandori]

Hey Guys,

I'm new to these boards, but reading through threads quickly. I didn't see anybody talking about these ideas already so I wanted to get them out there and see what you think. Sorry if somebody has already mentioned it.
Idea #1. Fixing the issue of dim-middle
I looked at pictures all around the website and saw how the lightsabers with a single super bright LED at the base have the problem of being bright at the hilt and end, but dead in the middle. I saw in another thread how somebody talked about using a lens to focus the beam to essentially disperse the light a bit more. Well, here's my thought...

Fill the blade with some type of lightweight material that can vary from being very clear (transparent) to very milky white (translucent). You want the clearer material near the LED, and the most "milky" part near the tip of the blade. The idea is that as light moves up the shaft, more light gets reflected out of the straight path as it travels farther down the blade. If you can get the diffusion of clear-->milky correct, you just might end up with an evenly-light dispersed blade! I would first suggest trying out clear packing foam. Grind it into smaller pieces for the tip and big clear chunks near the LED.

Idea #2 Clash Flash
After I opened up my Master Replica Lightsabers, I noticed that each LED had it's own Biasing resistor (around 390 Ohms). What I'm now planning on doing is switching those out for resistors around half the resistance (around 210 Ohms). Then near the emitter, I'll solder another resistor in parallel with another transistor. The new transistor will usually be OFF and the resistor limits the current to what the LED's normally get.

Now... wire the base of that transistor to the output of the clash sensor. (a bit of work there, depending on how it outputs) So that when the clash sensor goes off, the transistor turns ON and that new resistor is shorted. Now the LED's get nearly twice the current for a short period of time. The overall effect?

The blade flashes when the clash sensor goes off.

Cool huh?[/u]

[Barmic Rin]

Anyone object if I handle this one??

First off, welcome.

Secondly, we already use different diffusion paper/tubes inside our blades, so not all of us have the problem of 'dim middle'. I only suffer it when my batteries are getting low.

As for the flash effects, may I offer you a slice of 'buttered toast'?
I only have BT v1 at the mo & I love the effects & sound from that, picking up a V2 at CE (as long as Erv holds one for me!!!)

We always appreciate new ideas & input, but I suggest you read up a little more as we already have ways around the problems you pointed out!
Don't be discouraged, we're always looking for wayts to improve the effects.

[Novastar]

Eandori... I believe your idea on the MR board could indeed work, although you may find a few tiny roadblocks on the way through. Still--I think what you're hoping to do could work if you're careful enough.

As to dimmer middles--there are many ways of diffusing light, and what I've noticed over the last two years... is that everyone has preferences on how things should be illuminated. Some prefer a brighter "plume" of light near the bottom/emitter... while others prefer a more even lighting solution. Some solutions are acceptable + easy & "alteration-friendly"... while others are not.

Ultimately--what you want to do--is *DO* these things you say... post photos, explanations, and detail what worked as you expected and what did not. Then, people can make their own choices on what they think is better/worse.

As to being new--don't worry. We're a friendly forum here, but you will indeed find many answers to many questions all over the bloody place!

[Barmic Rin]

Ask & ye shall Learneth dear boy!
At the end of the day, it all comes down to personal choice with the way your saber goes, it is yours after all.
Just check out other peoples designs & see which you'd prefer!

[neophyl]

Yeah everything sounds like it will work electrically. Cant see a problem there. Even the clash sensor works on the positive side (one contact is conected to positive, the other becomes positive when triggered) so you can tap off from that via a suitable biasing resistor for your new transistor, may I suggest a mosfet for its extemely low on resistance.

All sounds great. You are however forgetting one of the big problems with the MR blades in the first place. The fact that you cant really duel with them as the connections to the led resistors break under impact leading to dark spots. Kind of seems pointless doing all this work modifying everything to make it brighter during a clash when the clashing breaks the blade.

[Jedi-Loreen]

Not to mention the fact that it's a little too advanced for most people to do things like that on a circuit board.

[jjshumpert]

if your looking for a " flash on clash " type effect, look into either the ultrasound module available for pre order here in the store or plecter labs crystal focus module. both have the desired effect and look great used along with corbins blades, also sold in the store. as for filling the blade i have tried out a few methods to get a more evenly lit blade and the truth of the matter is there are only some colored emitters that wont give a uniform apearance to the naked eye, when dealing with lux 3, k2 or 5w even my extremely sensitive eyes have a hard time picking up the dimming in the last quarter of the blade tube before the tip. you will always have this effect to some extent as opposed to the stock mr setup, but thats to be expected considering you are lighting the tube with only one led at its base instead of a string inside the tube, but hilts using the luxeon units are far brighter than the stock mr blade of the same color even with the mr blade tube that its pretty much worth dealing with the slightly dimmer end section. if your dead set on using mr blade tubes, get yourself some reflective disks and glue them into the tip of your blade and it will do alot to fix the problem. just remember its still a 1/16th sidewall blade and WILL NOT hold up to the same abuse that blades purchased here will, one good parry and the inner diffusor wrinkles and your left with a white crease in your blade tube...

[Do-Clo]

I have a very simple solution for a saber with flash on clash buy a hasbro saber

[Novastar]

To Do-Clo you listen! Mind what you have learned, save you it can!

Awww, Don why'd ya have to go and ruin a perfectly good and fun MR mod idea?

Although I agree with Phyl that flash on clash won't be so pretty when the LEDs start burning out from whacks and thwacks and ka-bangas... .... (?)

..."Ka-banga" is a choreography term too, so don't make fun!!!

Finally, yeah I can only imagine that:

1. Once the MR is taken out of the hilt...
2. Once the MR board parts are de-soldered...
3. Once the new parts are installed for Flash...
4. Including all of this labor...

...will it be an endeavor that costs $40 to $60 dollars? If so, the Ultraboard is $80, and the Erv board is about $130 (and programmable). Both boards drive a saber that is duel-able to heart's content. Even a broken poly-c will not stop the drivers from working.

I STILL think it's a worthy venture... but possibly not cost effective.

[Do-Clo]

The big problen is that the transister proposed in the mod suggested would have to be able to handle 1000 ma of current requiring a large transister and a heat sink to keep it from burning out. Reailty sure can ruin a lot of ideas.