Got a 2003 MR Vader board...clash clarification

[gthmnyt2580]

Ok, so i've spent the last few hours trying searching through the forums trying to figure out what i have to do...i just need some further clarification.....so my next saber i'm building is an Red Lux III saber which will include Corbin's (latching switch) driver from the store and now the 2003 MR Vader board for full light and sound effects....the blade on my vader cracked so i figured i'd use the guts for my LED saber. Anyway, i read a bunch topics regarding hooking up the two boards and i needed a little clarification. So here is the MR Board i have (got the pic from another post)

EDIT: THE PIC I PREVIOUSLY HAD WAS OF THE WRONG BOARD...PLEASE REFER TO THE PIC BELOW

I also have a sound board from a Hasbro Anakin AOTC saber...

Now here is my question regarding the clash:
- from what i read, i CANNOT hook up the one clash sensor from the MR board to the Corbins board at the same time right or else it will fry the board?
- If that's that case....do i just hook up the Hasbro clash sensor to Corbin's board then?
- or do i just spring for Erv's Lux driver from plectorlabs?

I have a ton of different diagrams saved to my desktop right now and i'm getting confused....lol...sorry

[Ryma Mara]

Yes the clash sensor from the hasbro will work. corbin actually orefers them from what I have read along time ago, not sure of now

I myself am confused as to why it would need 2 clash sensors wouldent the switch be fine?

[xwingband]

Since you have a 2003 I believe you can safely disregard the "it will fry the board" stuff.

It's simple if you look at the newer ones. The clash sensor is integrated with the outputs and thus not suitable for corbin's.

For the newer boards another sensor like a hasbros is just fine and/or a momentary switch will work.

[gthmnyt2580]

Since you have a 2003 I believe you can safely disregard the "it will fry the board" stuff.

It's simple if you look at the newer ones. The clash sensor is integrated with the outputs and thus not suitable for corbin's.

For the newer boards another sensor like a hasbros is just fine and/or a momentary switch will work.

Interesting..it would be great if i could just use one...then i can save the Hasbro board for my son's saber....if that's the case...which color wires go to which board? the clash sensor has 4 colored wires coming off of it - Red / Orange / Brown / Yellow....do i cut them all off the MR board? do i cut certain ones and feed 2 wires to the Corbin board and then leave the other 2 attached to the MR board?....sorry for the questions....all the topics that i've seen thus far mostly cover the 05-06 MR sabers and not the older ones.

[xwingband]

If it's anything like the Luke ESB then the yellow and orange are clash wires. The others are for the swing. You can simply "share them" by splicing in leads from corbin's board.

It seems to still be in a housing there, but if you take it out you should be able to check it easily. Play connect the dots with the PCB traces. There should be two swing sensors (they'll rattle audibly) and the odd one out is the clash.

[gthmnyt2580]

Perfect...thanks xwing....at least know i have an idea of the wiring....now i need to finish the dang design for my next saber...so i far i have the emitter design figured out...not its just what body type to use and the overlay design for that...thanks again

[gthmnyt2580]

Ok...so i was wrong about my board in the pic.....i thought my board was exactly the same as the one in the pic i previously found in another thread and posted....but it's not....here are pix of my actual board:



As you can see, there are only 3 wires not 4 coming from the clash sensor.....Red / Orange / Brown...so yeah...i'm confused again....i still want to use this board for one of my future sabers but i dont know what wires i need to lead to both boards

[Ryma Mara]

Do you have the connector that went to the led strip?

[Jay-gon Jinn]

Do you have the connector that went to the led strip?

You're probably going to need that connector....it has the positive and negative wire(s) for your luxeon led. I've got a Vader board in my custom saber, too, here's what it looked like(from the other side):

The purple wire was the led positive, the bundle was the negative for the led, and the yellow ones were for the switch. The clash sensor was hot glued to the board when I got it, and I don't have a pic of that side of the board.

[Ryma Mara]

His is an 03 yours looks like the 05 like mine.