Tutorial writers...

**jjshumpert** · 05-09-2007, 03:28 PM

while im at it ill write up a tutorial for the ani rots, if your wanting full tutorials on all the hilts...

**Strydur** · 05-09-2007, 04:32 PM

I want full tutorials for them all yes. But only using the kits as I sell them.

The luke can wait until I have kits available. But feel free to post it anyways.

**jjshumpert** · 05-09-2007, 05:22 PM

ill go ahead and write up the maul then, but ill have to order the conversion kit before i can add all the pics in, unless you want to send me kit so i can finish it up...

**jjshumpert** · 05-09-2007, 08:17 PM

This tutorial will show you how to convert your 2005 Master Replicas Darth Maul to a 3watt Luxeon using The Custom Saber Shop conversion kit . The saber will retain all sound functions and use the original switch. I make no guarantees that the wiring etc that I say to use in this tutorial will be the same in all models. You will need to have basic soldering and mechanical skills to do the conversion. You can reuse the stock MR blade by sanding the base of the blade down so that it will fit inside the blade holder. When finished you will have one very strong saber as everything between your hands and the PolyC blade will be metal to metal with no weak plastic.

Unscrew the pommel and remove the battery pack.

There is a small pin in the side of the activation switch that must be removed.

Using a small punch push the pin inside the knurled cap.

Once the pin is pushed in, using a small flathead screwdriver carefully pry the cover off and remove the small metal ring under it.

Inside the black plastic switch there is a small philips screw that must be removed, as well as a small metal tube that acts as a guide and spacer for the screw and switch.

Unscrew the aluminum knurled knob and aluminum ring directly behind the activation switch.

Remove the convertech knob from the bottom of the hilt.

There is a large pin that goes through the hilt body just behind the emitter. Using a punch push this pin all the way through the hilt to release the blade and blade holder from the hilt.

Inside the hilt there is a plastic ring that must be removed. This will not be reused, so there is no worry if it is damaged while removing it from the hilt.

You can now push the blade and electronics of the saber out the pommel end of the hilt.

There are 2 small pins that connect the blade assembly and holder to the sound module.

Push these in with your small punch and separate the blade assembly from the sound module and unplug the led connector.

There is one large pin that holds the blade inside of the blade holder, using a small punch push this pin all the way through the blade holder assembly to release the blade from the blade holder.

There is a small pin keeping the led and shock sensor mount inside the blade. Using a small drill bit in your dremel, cut the blade tube around the pin, then using a pair of needle nosed pliers remove the pin from the blade assembly.

Remove the black plastic led and shock sensor mount along with the led strip from the blade tube and cut away the black plastic housing.

Cut the led wires from the led strip. Brown, Red, Orange, Yellow, Green, and Blue wires from the connector should be cut about one half inch from the connector, and then soldered together. Using a piece of wire that you just cut, solder together with your negative wires and after cooling cover with heat shrink tubing.

The blue wire from the shock sensor and the purple wire from the connector should be soldered together. Using a piece of wire that you just cut, solder together with your positive wires and after cooling cover with heat shrink tubing.

Mount your Luxeon to the heatsink by threading the wire leads through the holes on the heatsink.

Insert the lens into the lens holder and mount to the Luxeon.

You can now attach the battery pack to test your connections.

Now thread your heatsink into the blade holder.

Cut out the top of the sound module as shown. Drill a small hole as shown so that the shock sensor can be mounted into the top of the sound module.

Connect the led connector and mount the shock sensor.

Mark the position on the outer hilt body for placement of your blade retention screw. Drill and tap a hole through both the hilt body and blade holder to match the screw of your choice.

Install the blade screw.

Install the black plastic switch, spacer, and screw.

Replace the small aluminum ring and red knurled switch cap.

Replace the switch cap pin.

Tighten the aluminum knurled screw.

Replace the convertech knob.

Insert the battery pack and screw on the pommel.

You have now completed the TCSS Custom Luxeon Conversion.

**Strydur** · 05-09-2007, 09:49 PM

Looks good..you need pics obviously. It wouldnt exactly be fair to just send you a kit now and then have someone else post a tutorial before you get it etc..

Need to change the wording to say maul and not vader

I wouldnt drill and tap the outer section and then drill and tap the blade holder seperately. The reason is you need the threads to line up so you should tap both at the same time while the assembly is together.

There should be room to not need to do what you have done for the shock sensor but that is a cool idea.

Anyways..enough from me. I posted this little contest so I wouldnt have to worry about getting them done. So first person to post a complete tutorial I use gets the kit. Or better yet I will give you a kit of your choice so maybe you can work on the next tutorial.

**jjshumpert** · 05-10-2007, 05:32 AM

oops, i did type vader huh? ill get it all fixed up later today. dont worry tim, i wasnt serious about getting a maul kit sent right now!

**DACOTA** · 05-10-2007, 11:20 AM

Well I can do it I have the other kit and the other half of my maul so all I need is a center punch,I dont need the store credit since I got my holders free I just want to be the one to do the tutoral.

What I did is cut off the little tips of the clash sensor and then I hot glued the sensor horizontally in one of the side milled slots of the copper slug.Then I cut off 2/16 off the blade holder cause the switch wouldnt go close enough to the hole,it was 2/16's off hence the cutting.I think either way you still have to do some work whether you re-locate the sensor or cut off 2/16 of the holder but imo what I did was less work.

**jjshumpert** · 05-10-2007, 11:40 AM

dunno bout that, i would rather spend a minute to do the cutout and drill than 10 cutting down the blade holder... i didnt have to do any modifications to get everything to fit other than the 2 cuts and drilling. it seriously took about one minute after i figured out how i wanted to do it

**DACOTA** · 05-10-2007, 02:06 PM

So whats the difference,cutting a holder and gluing a sensor or cutting and drilling a plastic holder and placing a sensor,either way it takes a minute of work.
I dont mean to be rude its just my opinion and either way its up to Tim.
I do like the way you did it I just didnt want to on mine,and besides it gives people a couple of diiferent ways to do it and its not like mine or yours works better than each others,there just different.