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Thread: Recommendation on blade construction/diffusion

  1. #1

    Default Recommendation on blade construction/diffusion

    I’m building my first baselit hilt, using CFX and a XP-E2 RGrB LED from TCSS. I am curious about different blade diffusion methods, but due to limited storage space and a desire to minimize waste (funds and leftover materials), I don't want to experiment with too many different blades and diffusers only to never use most of them. The only thing I know for certain is that I will be using clear 1” thin-walled blade stock from TCSS with their clear parabolic tips.

    As far as visual qualities, I have a specific preference and set of priorities that are as follows (from highest to lowest priority):
    1. Color depth: I want the color of the blade to be deep and vibrant, minimizing the light-in-tube effect, coring, or really any effect that makes the whole blade feel less like a consistent glowing blade; this is also why trans white blades are out of the question, due to the inherent pasteling they do to most colors compared to clear blades.In other words, I want the color of the blade to look true and accurate, as if it's the strongest aspect of the blade.
    2. Consistency/vertical diffusion: Naturally, I want my blade to be as consistent as possible, with a preference for a slightly flared top if anything. I am willing to compromise diffusion slightly in favor of the upper two factors, but only if it's not severe. If the blade will look like it only has LEDs at the base and tip, I am willing to compromise on brightness to improve diffusion.
    3. Brightness: I want my blade to be bright enough to have a distinct glow coming off of it, enough to faintly bounce off me and my IMMEDIATE surroundings (think the sabers in Clone Wars, or Vader’s hallway scene). If the saber can still be bright enough to blind me while maintaining the color depth I want, that's perfect; but if higher brightness comes at the cost of color depth/accuracy, I am willing to sacrifice the former in favor of the latter


    TL:DR I want my blade’s color to be uniformly deep and rich, while still maintaining enough luminance to glow like the blades of The Clone Wars or the sequels. I don't need the brightest star in the galaxy if it means weaker colors, and am willing to slightly compromise brightness in favor of color depth and consistent luminance.

    Naturally, I want the color to be rich on all colors of the RGrB spectrum, but if push comes to shove, these are my preferred blade colors:
    • Primary: bluish purple
    • FoC: orange
    • Stab: deep red
    • Lock-up: barely-pastel orange
    • Force-clash: fiery yellow/Super Sonic


    As far as diffusion methods, I have TCSS diffusion tubes, TCSS blade film, Jo-Anns clear cellophane, and blade sanding (internal and/or external) at my disposal, and would like to stay within those options. The only one I'm barely skeptical of is the diffusion tube, only because it is trans-white, and I'm curious if it will make the color noticeably paler like trans-white blades do.

    With ALL that being said, how would you guys recommend assembling and diffusing a blade to meet my preferences?

  2. #2

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    Ok. Basically what you’re describing is a Corbin style blade. It could also be done with a TCSS blade. You’ll want some type in internal diffusion wrap, and also to sand the external blade (lengthwise), to help counteract the light in tube look. Trans white don’t always fade the colors out. I’d have to look at my old VV blades and see what they are. I believe they are trans white.im sure if you look around, the discussions about clear vs trans white blades are around here somewhere.

    If you’re so concerned about brightness and color accuracy, and since you’re using a CFX, you would be better off probably going the Neopixel route, since that is where the hobby has gone over the last 5 years or so.
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  3. #3

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    Initially, I wanted to avoid NeoPixel because I thought I'd be dualing it pretty hard, so I went ahead and bought a Trident RGB board from Elegant Weapons since it's a half-guard saber. A few weeks later I decided I wouldn't be dueling it THAT hard, but had already dropped 50ish on the expansion board, so sunk-cost told me to just make the most of baselit. It's unfortunate, but I can live with it. As far as the diffusion though, which would you recommend as far as a tube, cellophane, and/or blade film?

  4. #4

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    For base lit, you only need blade film /cellophane and external sanding.
    TCSS MODERATOR
    All n00bs READ these first (PLEASE)!!!:
    1. Forum Guidelines
    2. FJK’s “Down and Dirty” guide to Ohm’s Law

    "Yeah, yeah, I've heard it all before... you want blindingly bright, super loud, running 1138 blinkies off of the cheapest sound card you can find AND you want all of it to run on a battery the size of a dime, and run for a very, VERY long time. That one cracks me up every time..."
    My email: fjk_tcss@yahoo.com

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