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Thread: MHS V1 1" Blade Tri-Reb Upgrade to Pixel Blade Help

  1. #1

    Default MHS V1 1" Blade Tri-Reb Upgrade to Pixel Blade Help

    I built my custom lightsaber from this store around 10 years ago. Its time for an upgrade and all the help is appreciated.

    I currently have a MHS V1 setup with a Nano Biscotte V2 and a tri-rebel LED (blue) with a blue illuminated (ring) momentary switch (https://www.thecustomsabershop.com/1...itch-P616.aspx.)


    I'm wanting to pull the cord on getting a PROFFIEBOARD V2.2 and the following parts from this store:


    MHSv1 NPXL Hilt Side Adapter https://www.thecustomsabershop.com/M...temId=11406674

    Pre-Soldered NPXL V3 Hilt side PCB connector - Long Pins https://www.thecustomsabershop.com/P...2369,2372,2373

    BTF SK6812 RGB 144 LED Pixel Strip (x2) https://www.thecustomsabershop.com/B...temId=11406683

    1" Thick walled Trans White parabolic Pixel blade tip https://www.thecustomsabershop.com/1...temId=11406684

    40" LED blade diffuser for 1" thick walled blades https://www.thecustomsabershop.com/4...temId=11406685

    Foam tube for 7/8" thin and 1" thick tubes V2 https://www.thecustomsabershop.com/F...temId=11406686

    1" NPXL V3 Hilt Side Adapter https://www.thecustomsabershop.com/1...Kits=2363,3291

    Pixel PCB - blade side https://www.thecustomsabershop.com/P...temId=11410310

    Will this fit my MHS v1 1" blade holder and work together? Am I missing anything?

  2. #2

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    you are missing this, it holds the blade side PCB in the blade: https://www.thecustomsabershop.com/1...ter-P1347.aspx

    Also make sure you have the appropriate wire gauges, pixel draws a lot more current than the older cree/tri-cree ever did (10-15A as opposed to 3-4A). So make sure you use thicker gauge wire for your power lines. Personally I use 20 AWG then 28-30 AWG for the rest like speaker, switch, data, etc.

  3. #3

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    So the rest of this will turn my V1 build into a Pixel?

    And thanks for the wire tip too!

  4. #4

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    Oh, and do I have to worry about resistors and such or does the Profeeboard come with all them built in?

  5. #5

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    It does look like you have what you need, aside from the proffieboard (TCSS now carries the v3.9 board which does have some advantages, but it does cost more than the 2.2). As for resistors, the only ones needed would be for extra data lines. There is a built in one for the Data1 pin, but Data2-4 would require a 470 Ohm Resistor (this is for cleaning the data signal). Another tip I should pass along is you will need to make sure the battery being used is high drain, at least 10A concurrent discharge rated (TCSS sells 15A ones that are perfect). And only single cell, so 3.7v. Thankfully the power lines feeding to the blade strips do not need resistors.

  6. #6

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    I have the LIon Battery from my original build over 9 years ago. Still holds a charge.

    3.7v/2400mAh

    PAN18650P

  7. #7

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    doubtful that will provide the correct current, cells from that long ago usually had 5-8A current cutoffs on the protection PCB. you can try it, but do not be surprised if the blade starts to light up then all of a sudden the saber reboots or you lose power altogether. That would be the protection PCB kicking in to prevent the cell from overdraw.


    Also, with 2400mAh, you would get maybe... 30 min of run time before needing to charge. Pixel sabers are real power hogs.

  8. #8

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    You think this is the bad boy I should get?

    DM Keeppower Li-Ion 21700 3.7V 15A 5000mAh PCB Protected Rechargeable Battery

    https://www.thecustomsabershop.com/D...ery-P1717.aspx

  9. #9

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    That is what I use by default in commissions that have the room for them. They are larger cells, 21mm diameter and 70mm long over 18mm diameter and 65mm long. But there is plenty of space inside MHSv1 to house one.

  10. #10

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    Quote Originally Posted by RavenXp View Post
    It does look like you have what you need, aside from the proffieboard (TCSS now carries the v3.9 board which does have some advantages, but it does cost more than the 2.2). As for resistors, the only ones needed would be for extra data lines. There is a built in one for the Data1 pin, but Data2-4 would require a 470 Ohm Resistor (this is for cleaning the data signal). Another tip I should pass along is you will need to make sure the battery being used is high drain, at least 10A concurrent discharge rated (TCSS sells 15A ones that are perfect). And only single cell, so 3.7v. Thankfully the power lines feeding to the blade strips do not need resistors.
    I'm only running one blade, looking at the diagram I'll only be using data 1. I have a LED momentary switch for on/off which I have the resistor for that already. So, I should be good?

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