It actually came with a protected 18650 battery, which is good. The saber is from Ali Express, from a store called STKsabers. The saber itself is an X-Lightsabers brand. Yes, it was from China but the hilt is actually really nice. And I have a Korbanth LS6 Gullwing. The stock electronics aren't bad either with good sound and smooth swing. The only negative is I can't change the fonts or add more. It is a 1" I.D. size hilt. Speaking of Darkwolf, I just found that they make a switch PCB with either barrel or USB-C. I've also seen complete chassis on Vire Sabers and Crimson Dawn with the GHV3 and either barrel or USB-C. So, I wonder if I can just buy one of those switch boards instead of the seedling and a separate switch.
I do have a 3D printer and am currently designing a chassis for the Korbanth, so that is an option. Is there any reason to not use the LED that came with it? It is plenty bright and I'm happy with the colors.
There likely is, but finding one that fits your specific hilt would likely be a shot in the dark (not all hilts are universal in terms of internal dimensions). Most general chassis will only include bare minimum in terms of compatibility for hilts like wire channels, speaker mount location, soundboard mount location, and typically a RC port and/or kill switch mount location. Things like OLED, seedling, BT modules, accent LEDs and accent strips would be considered extra and are usually only found on custom design chassis or the fancy reveal ones made by people like Goth3D.
I went ahead and traced out the USB/Switch board and was able to complete my wiring diagram. I feel pretty good about it but here it is...
FYI: I'm not concerned about USB Data access. I don't plan on making many changes and the chassis is easy to remove anyway. The switch is lighted which LED6 connects to. Let me know if there are any major issues!
UPDATE: I've been working on wiring up the board and was able to get it kind of working. Ha. More testing lead me to discover a few things:
1. The RGB white wire is Batt+ and the colored wires are negative.
2. There is only one positive wire feeding the LED.
3. The daughter board has the white wire going to the momentary switch, and then to the pin. So, I am planning on bypassing that and going straight from the battery to the white lead on the LED per the wiring guide.
Since there is only one positive, where should the resistor(s) be? I'm guessing I could use either three small resistors on the RGB wires OR one large resistor on the positive wire? If I go with one large resistor, would I simply add the values for each LED color together? I've attached the updated diagram to show my progress.
the resistors needed for the LEDs can go on the negative lines. Doesn't really matter too much if the resistor is before or after the LED in the circuit, so long as it's there it'll do it's job. At least as far as simple LED circuits go anyway.
I have it hooked up right now with a 100ohm resistor (I know that's too high) on the positive lead and only red is lighting up. 100ohm is the lowest I have right now. Below are my forward voltage results from my multimeter and calculations after that.
Red 1.62Vf
Green 2.11Vf
Blue 2.41 Vf
So, according to the many calculations out there, here is what I came up with:
R <Ohms> = (VfBattery - (VfLED1 + VfLED2 + VfLED3)) / I
R = (4V - (1.62 + 2.11 + 2.41)) / 1A
R = (4 - 6.14) / 1
R = 2.14 / 1
R = 2.14 (Round down to 2Ohms?)
Now to calculate Watts:
P <Watts> = R * I^2
P = 2.14 * 1
P = 2.14 (I will go with a 3W)
This is all for one resistor on the single positive lead. Will that allow equal brightness for all three colors or should I put a resistor on each color lead instead?
it's typical practice to put a resistor on each die (color). Sharing a resistor you would likely suffer from either diminished brightness or even a whole color not working at all. you can also use the resistor calculator on the store page to make things a lot easier for yourself, will give you the true value as well as the closest resistor value TCSS sells. https://www.thecustomsabershop.com/LedCalc.aspx
Ok. That makes perfect sense now. That is why only the red LED is lighting up right now.
I will use that calculator to figure out each resistor. Do I guess and go with 1000mA?
I'm sorry I didn't mention it, but this LED is what came in the saber from Ali Express. It's super bright though so I wanted to reuse it. That is why I have to do all the calculations manually. No data sheet. Sigh.
Here is what it looks like, for reference. IMG_7319.jpg
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