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Thread: Dealing with the twisties

  1. #1

    Default Dealing with the twisties

    Hi,

    I've just completed 3 sabers, all of the same design - a short extension housing an exposed recharge port, a chassis with battery and CFX board, all connected to an activation switch in the hilt. With both the recharge port and activation switch sitting on the outside of the hilt, they obviously provide a non-moveable point, and so, as I screw the hilt into the extension, all the wires keep getting twisted inside. I'm concerned about breaking a wire if I do this too often.

    Is there any way around this with that design? Or, should I just float the recharge port inside the extension (sitting within its own chassis disks), so that the only connection to the hilt body is through the activation switch? I think this would solve the twisting problem. A little more inconvenient because I'd need to unscrew the extension to get at the recharge port, but that may be a worthwhile trade-off.

    Am I thinking about this correctly?

    Thanks
    Mike

  2. #2

    Default

    We would need to see the saber design and such.Pics would definitely be helpful here. They need to be hosted elsewhere and you post the links here. I have a post about it floating around somewhere.
    TCSS MODERATOR
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    "Yeah, yeah, I've heard it all before... you want blindingly bright, super loud, running 1138 blinkies off of the cheapest sound card you can find AND you want all of it to run on a battery the size of a dime, and run for a very, VERY long time. That one cracks me up every time..."
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  3. #3

    Default

    Here's a link with 3 pics of one of the sabers:

    https://river.vrealms.com/drive/d/s/...r4-OLRAeQKczwk

    What's maybe not obvious is that the rods holding the chassis together are screwed into the speaker, in the pommel. So, that chassis can't spin around freely, because it will hit the recharge port. Since the port limits the motion of the chassis, the wires leading up to the activation switch *have* to twist, IMO.

    Thanks,
    Mike

  4. #4

    Default

    Yeah, they do. I’m not particular a fan of where you have things placed within the hilt, but I understand it using the pieces you used. I basically stopped using the 7” main bodies years ago for that reason. I’m not sure if the old design builds I had posted on the site have their pictures still working, so I’ll post a couple of them here. I try to make the “fix point” of my chassis innthe middle of the hilt, and I tend to use a box or something for switches and or recharge port. Here are 2 examples.





    Last edited by Forgetful Jedi Knight; 09-06-2022 at 07:02 PM.
    TCSS MODERATOR
    All n00bs READ these first (PLEASE)!!!:
    1. Forum Guidelines
    2. FJK’s “Down and Dirty” guide to Ohm’s Law

    "Yeah, yeah, I've heard it all before... you want blindingly bright, super loud, running 1138 blinkies off of the cheapest sound card you can find AND you want all of it to run on a battery the size of a dime, and run for a very, VERY long time. That one cracks me up every time..."
    My email: fjk_tcss@yahoo.com

  5. #5

    Default

    Thanks for the reply. FJK, in that top saber you show, do you have a bluetooth module hooked up to the CFX board? Just thinking about space requirements...

    Thanks
    Mike

  6. #6

    Default

    No, I didn’t install one in that saber. Being able to easily remove the grip gives me (and the end user) easy access to the USB port.
    TCSS MODERATOR
    All n00bs READ these first (PLEASE)!!!:
    1. Forum Guidelines
    2. FJK’s “Down and Dirty” guide to Ohm’s Law

    "Yeah, yeah, I've heard it all before... you want blindingly bright, super loud, running 1138 blinkies off of the cheapest sound card you can find AND you want all of it to run on a battery the size of a dime, and run for a very, VERY long time. That one cracks me up every time..."
    My email: fjk_tcss@yahoo.com

  7. #7

    Default

    I've had this issue with a build and the way I went about it was mounting one of these slip ring deals to the end of the chassis, so that the bottom half of the hilt could spin freely without worry.(mostly, still a tight space so still be careful) They come in different wire amounts and sizes, I did have to shape this one down a bit to match diameter but it works!

    https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00QSHPIHE...roduct_details

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