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Thread: Disney Parks Exclusive Rey Conversion

  1. #1
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    Join Date
    Aug 2022
    United States

    Default Disney Parks Exclusive Rey Conversion

    Hi, are there any tutorials in replacing the Disney Parks exclusive Rey lightsaber? I have a custom conversion kit, a Lux Rebel III LED, a heatsink, a new blade, and all the other necessary parts for other conversion so how would I go about converting it? This is my first lightsaber conversion so any help would be amazing.

  2. #2


    Yeah. I did two of them. Vader and Rey DPE with a CFX board, neopixels and both turned out great.
    I answered your reply on the Hasbro FX conversion.
    I'm searching for the video I saw that gave me tips and inspiration to transform these wonderful hilts (but boring sound & light) into excellence.

  3. #3

    Here is the link on the You Tube video. This is for a neopixel blade and not for an in-hilt LED. I have no experience with installing a Tri-Cree in one because of the blade holder and much larger I.D. of the hilt. You'll have to use the DPE blade parts because of the slots and holes for reusing base blade shell unless you are good with a Dremel. But no worries, the DPE blade parts are the same as TCSS. Blade is thin-walled clear, there is a diffuser tube and also foam that are identical to what TCSS sells. I would get a hollow parabolic trans white blade tip for thick walled blades. The one for thin walled doesn't quite fit. You can always keep the original tip on, but it is clear and might over illuminate the tip.
    I used the OEM slide latching switch for ignite (I just slide it on-then-off to simulate a momentary), then drilled a hole in the hilt below the OEM board shells to be able to install a separate AUX momentary switch (TCSS standard #Switch05) that leaves enough room for the battery. I went another route for the battery than in the video. I used an 3.7v 15Amp 18650 with Deans micro connects on two TCSS chassis discs. For the speaker, I mounted it in the pommel cap with the base of the OEM speaker holder (just separate it from the OEM battery holder) with JST micro 2.0 connectors & wires.
    Well, that's it for now. I'll post more if I forgot something. I'll have to post pics of both sabers. I didn't film anything on my builds because this was before I joined this forum.


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