Thoughts on modding a disney Saavi's workshop saber?

[GreenFive]

That is important to keep in mind; yes. But i'm more likely to hand it down to a family member or friend than sell it. I doubt I'd recycle the electronics into a newer saber. But nothing is ever set in stone.

[ViperR]

Excellent. Very good of you. Just wanted to give a quick tip.
My chassis is installed with the board & wires. Also mounted both switches. Tested before I slid in the battery chassis. All fit fine and worked, but found the bass speaker and the JST connectors took up way too much space and contacted the 18650 batt before fully closing. So, I'm going to use the thinner premium speaker, hard wire it and that should be fine. Really tight space in the hilt. I'll get some pics up tomorrow.
Keep us posted on your build.

[GreenFive]

Sure Thing! I may not be able to start it until after the new year. but i will keep ya posted.

[ViperR]

Yes, keep us posted.
I finished mine today and here are some pics of the battery chassis installed, both switches in and the slimmer premium speaker. Plenty of room now for everything.IMG_1613.jpgIMG_1612.JPG

[ViperR]

Alrighty then, here are more pics of it completed. Hilt grip strips on and all put together. Challenging gutting out a Disney hilt and replacing everything, but quite satisfying with end result.
I'll get a couple of videos recorded and posted.
IMG_1615.jpg
IMG_1614.jpg

[GreenFive]

That is so cool! can't wait too see the videos. my only thoughts are i would of used tactical momentary switches they have a lower smaller profile. but that is just me.

[ViperR]

I had to go with switches that go into the inside of the hilt and come up through a hole and secured with the knurled ring nut on the outside. That way, if I need to remove the inner chassis tube, I can unscrew the nut, push the switches inside and slide the tube out. Impossible with the other switches because I'd have to unsolder switch wires, unscrew the nut inside and lift the switch out. It's just that way with a one-piece hilt. And mine are the only ones TCSS offers that secure from the outside.
Yes, the yellow AUX one stands out, but that is just a trimmed down end cap from a BIC pen. All I had was from a yellow & white tubbed pen. I'll look for an all black pen. The reason I put the cap on is I use the AUX a lot and the tiny tip of the switch is uncomfortable being a stiff spring. The pen end cap is rounded and had a larger end. A black one will be less noticeable.

[ViperR]

https://www.facebook.com/10005209104...9745767602875/

Ok, lets see if this video downloads. Just a short video showing Vader's red, Luke's green ROTJ and Luke's blue from ANH & TESB. Couldn't do clashes because I had my phone in my hand (they do work fine), but shows power up & down, blaster deflects, smooth swing and blade lockup. That momentary blue that lit up was the battery life check I hit by accident via the AUX switch.
I have more fonts on the SD card, but just wanted to show the three from the original trilogy.

[ViperR]

Alrighty then, since the Vader turned out good and I now know what makes that conversion successful, I found a Disney Parks Exclusive Rey's (Anakin/Luke/Rey) new in box online and bought it. Just going to repeat the build.

[GreenFive]

That is awesome! congrats on the successful conversion! yeah; I see what your talking about now with the switches now. I watched a few other videos with Graflex flash tube body.