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Thread: Thoughts on modding a disney Saavi's workshop saber?

  1. #1

    Default Thoughts on modding a disney Saavi's workshop saber?

    So I'd use the Emitter, sleeves, pommel, and the halves of the activation plates. I think the inner diameter this closer to Graflex. I'd like to build a custom chassis for it. use a 18650 battery, CFX, battle ready neo pixel blade. I pretty sure i could figure some thing out. the biggest issue is the threads which i think are similar to the MHS threading.

  2. #2

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    I'm doing the same thing, but with an original Disney Parks Exclusive D23 Darth Vader with a CFX v10 using everything in it. I finished the Neopixel blade. Soldered the wires to the blade side OEM pcb and used all the same blade parts, tube, diffuser, foam & base for the quick disconnect. Two 144 strips cut to 122, staggered and stuck together. The only blade part I replaced is the clear round tip with a bullet tip (I have the clear and the opaque ones to see what looks better. Just taped in place before I decide which looks better before gluing in). Purchased three fonts from SaberFonts.....I'm OT, so I got Darth red, Luke/Anakin blue and Luke ROTJ green.
    Blade is finished, SD card done and tomorrow is soldering the CFX.
    Keep us posted on your progress. I'll do the same.

  3. #3

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    are you still using the Original chassis? does the blade still wiggle like it does before modification? are you using Bluetooth for the cfx v10 for blade color mixing effects?

  4. #4

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    Yep, using all the original hilt, sound card tube insert and blade mounts except for the 3-AA battery holder. I'm using a 18650 and chassis discs.
    No, the blade does not wiggle in the least having a spring loaded locking mechanism that uses a plunger release on the body. A very secure fit. This is a Disney Parks Exclusive that came well before Savi's or Legacy you get at Hollywood Studios. I know those two are just a twist fit and are prone to a loose fit.
    No, not using Bluetooth. Since the sound card will be mounted forward on the body, I will be using a flexible micro SD extension cable snaked through at the pommel end, so it will be an easy close access when I want to mod or add fonts.

  5. #5

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    can you post photos of that mod in here? or link me to you photo build moding of it if you've done that? i'd like to see it.

  6. #6

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    Sure, no problem. Once I finish soldering a few more wires, I'll post pics.
    In the mean time, I got my inspiration from this build on Youtube. The things I'm doing different is having a momentary on/off & AUX switches to scroll different sound, color & blade effects instead of the stock latching switch. His build is limited to the effects in the video. I also won't be using the AA battery holder. I'll be using an 18650 battery and chassis discs.
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l45Ed6MHQdY

  7. #7

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    Well, here are some pics what I have so far. Soldering done and all works. Now, ream holes for the switches, stuff it all in the hilt and test again.
    I taped the pixel blade to the pins and tried all three fonts and adjusted colors. All effects are spectacular and this thing is bright. Sound is loud from the base speaker, too.
    I wish I took pics of the blade innards, but it's the same as the video above.
    IMG_1610 (2).JPG
    IMG_1611 (2).JPG
    IMG_1609 (2).JPG

  8. #8

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    Very cool! I'm thinking can use the MHSv1 speaker mount Style 6 along with the 18650 battery holder in conjunction to the stock chassis. I found this video https://youtu.be/SfRoEVhzYvU on how to break it down. I'm going to replace the latching switch as well. one momentary on/off and an AUX switch I think two SPST Momentary tactile switch will work for that.

  9. #9

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    I watched the video and you have quite the challenge ahead of you. A little more complicated than mine, but you'll get it accomplished. Every Jedi/Sith has to make their own saber.
    My challenge now is stuffing everything in the one piece hilt tube and reaming switch holes.

  10. #10

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    One important thing to keep in mind is don't go hacking away at the plastic chassis interior to make new parts fit in case you ever want to go back to the original form if you decide to sell it or use the TCSS electronics in another hilt. If I decide to use the expensive TCSS electronics in the excellent hilt parts at TCSS, I can restore the Disney Parks Exclusive saber to it's original state.

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